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Scope.
This document is a repair guide for DataEast and Sega pinball games made from 1987 (Laser War) to 1995 (Batman Forever). Sega games are included from 1994 to 1995 as Sega bought DataEast in 1994.

Internet Availability of this Document.
Updates of this document are available for no cost at http://marvin3m.com/fix.htm if Internet access is available. This document is part one of three (part two is here, and part three is here). When printing this document, it is recommended to use Netscape (version 3 or higher). Unfortunately Internet Explorer (any version) can page-break in the middle of an inline picture (leaving a picture split on two pages), where Netscape does not.

IMPORTANT: Before you Start!
IF YOU HAVE NO EXPERIENCE IN CIRCUIT BOARD REPAIR, YOU SHOULD NOT TRY TO FIX YOUR OWN PINBALL GAME! Before you start any pinball circuit board repair, review the document at http://marvin3m.com/begin, which goes over the basics of circuit board repair. Since these pinball repair documents have been available, repair facilities are reporting a dramatic increase in the number of ruined ("hacked") circuit boards sent in for repair. Most repair facilities will NOT repair your circuit board after it has been unsuccessfully repaired ("hacked").

If you aren't up to repairing pinball circuit boards yourself or need pinball parts or just want to buy a restored game, I recommend seeing the suggested parts & repair sources web page.

Table of Contents

1. Getting Started:
1. Introduction to DataEast/Sega Pinball
2. Experience, Schematics
3. Necessary Tools
4. Parts to Have On-Hand
5. Different Board Generations
6. Game List
7. The Circuit Boards and How They Work
8. Using the Internal Adjustments, Audits & Diagnostics

2. Before Turning the Game On:

1. Check the Coil Resistance
2. Check the Fuses, Fuse Clips
3. General Illumination/Input Power Burnt Connectors
4. Quick and Easy Transistor Testing
5. Relays and Playfield Device Driver Board Problems (Cold/Fatiqued Solder Joints)
6. Power Supply Problems (no or low +5 volts)
7. Should the Game be Left Powered On?

3. When Things Don't Work:

1. Replacing Components
2. Coil & Flashlamp Problems (Checking/Fixing Transistors and Coils)
3. Game Resets (Diodes, Filter Caps, Bridge Rectifiers, Power Supply) and Strange Game Behavior
4. Power-On CPU LEDs and Sound Beeps
5. DataEast's CPU Diagnostic Test EPROM
6. CPU and Display EPROM versions
7. Fixing a Dead Game (CPU)
8. Fixing a Dead CPU Using Leon's Test EPROM
9. Problems with Flippers
10. The Lamp Matrix
11. The Switch Matrix
12. Ball Trough Problems & Optic Switches
13. Score Display Problems
14. Memory Error (Open Coin Door) - Remote Battery Installation
15. Sound Problems
16. Miscellaneous Oddities

4. Finishing Up:

1. Rebuilding Flippers
2. Converting a Foreign Game to U.S. Specs

Thanks to...
Special thanks to the many who provided feedback on this document. This includes Joe Blackwell at Stern Pinball's service department. A big thanks to Jerry Clause and Rob Hayes. Special thanks to Prestige Industries (pinball4u.com) for letting me borrow some DE/Sega games for research on this guide. Finally thanks to Phil Palmer at the Pinball Heaven for providing game manuals for this project.

DataEast pinball (then Sega pinball, and now Stern Pinball!) is really a Gary Stern company. Mr.Stern is a very smart businessman. His approach to business is, "copy the industry leader". At the time when DataEast started out in 1987, Williams was the industry leader of pinball. Hence Mr.Stern copied Williams. So closely, that DataEast's system of pinball circuit boards resembled Williams' system at that time (System 11). Keep this in mind when repairing any 1987 to 1995 DataEast/Sega pinball. Stern (DataEast/Sega) is the industry leader now!

What Repair Experience Is Expected?
Little experience in fixing pinballs is assumed. Basic electrical knowledge is helpful, but not necessary. It is assumed you can solder and use the basic features of a Digital Multi-Meter (DMM) such as measuring voltage and resistance. Please see http://marvin3m.com/begin for details on the basic electronics skills and tools needed. This document should help if you just bought your first (or second, or third) pinball "as-is", and hope to fix it.

Got Schematics?
Having a schematic for the game would be ideal, but sometimes it can be fixed without it. Schematics can be ordered from one of the sources on the suggested parts & repair sources web page. Note this repair guide is NOT a replacement for the game manual and schematics!

Schematics are available on the internet too. Adobe Acrobat is needed to view most files.

• DE Schematics (1.4meg). DataEast "Checkpoint" schematics in a single ZIP (WinZip required) file (see game specific information below for board generations used in Checkpoint, and if they match your specific game). Individual scans are in TIF format.
• www.sternpinball.com/schematics.htm. Mostly newer schematics for games not covered in this manual.
• www.sternpinball.com/bulletins.htm. All the DataEast/Sega/Stern Service Bulletins.
• www.sternpinball.com/parts.htm. Appendix A through I of the more recent game's manual

Fixing electronic pinball games will require a few tools. Luckily, most are not that specialized and are easy to get.

Non-Specialized Tools Required:

• Work Light: clamp style lamp
• Screwdrivers: small and medium size, phillips and flat head
• Nut Drivers: 1/4", 5/16", and 11/32"
• Wrenches: 3/8", 9/16", 5/8" required, other sizes suggested
• Allen Wrenches: get an assortment of American sizes
• Needle Nose Pliers
• Hemostat. Handy for holding parts and springs. Best to have both the curved and straight versions if possible.

Specialized Tools Required:

• Soldering Iron.
• Rosin Core 60/40 Solder.
• De-soldering tool.
• Digital Multi-Meter (DMM).
• Hand Crimping Tool: Molex WHT-1921 (part# 11-01-0015), Molex part# 63811-1000, Amp 725, or Radio Shack #64-410.
• Alligator clips and wire.

These are electronics tools needed for most repairs. Please see http://marvin3m.com/begin for details on the basic electronics tools needed.

Cleaning "Tools" Required:

• Novus #2 (for cleaning playfields and ramps). The recommended cleaning product by DataEast/Sega, as described in service bullentin 38a.
• Novus #3 (for polishing metal parts)
• A paste wax like Trewax (for waxing playfields and cleaning rubber)
Novus can be purchased at many places (my local grocery store sells it), or from any good pinball vendor. Novus2 is the recommended playfield cleaner for all DataEast/Sega games. See their service bullentin #38a for details, by clicking here. Millwax is not recommended because it uses harmful solvents, but some like it (mostly because they have been around for a LONG time and are used to it). Do not use any Wildcat products! They react with acrylic plastics, with which most DataEast/Stern playfields and ramps are coated. A good paste wax like Trewax can be purchased at a local hardware store.

When fixing electronic pinballs, it is highly recommended having some parts on-hand to make things easier and cheaper. All these parts are available from a pinball retailer.

Parts to have:

• #47/#44 light bulbs: have 20 or so around. Fifty is plenty to do most games. Number 47 bulbs are suggested instead of #44 bulbs, as they consume less power and produce less heat. They also put less stress on illumination circuits and connectors. Since they are less bright, a good compromise is to use #44 bulbs for the computer controlled lights, and #47 bulbs for the general illumniation.
• #555 light bulbs: have 20 or so around. Fifty is plenty to do most games.
• #906 or 912 flash bulbs: have 10 or so around.
• #89 flash bulbs: have 10 or so around.
• Fuses: have five of any needed value on hand at all times.
  Get 250 volt fuses, not 32 volt. Radio Shack sells fuses for a decent price. Slow-blo fuses are known as MDL fuses. Fast-blo fuses are known as AGC fuses. At minimum: 1/4 amp slo-blo, 1/2 amp slo-blo, 2 amp slo-blo, 4 amp slo-blo, 5 amp slo-blo, 7 amp slo-blo, 8 amp fast-blo.
• Fuse Clips: these are always broken on DataEast games! Get 1/4" Tin plated Beryllium Copper fuse clips, for high current applications.
• Nylon Coil Sleeves: the longer 2 3/16" length (Stern part# 545-5388-00, Wms part# 03-7066-5) are used when rebuilding flippers. The 1.75" length (Stern part# 545-5031-00, Wms part# 03-7066) are used for pop bumpers, etc. Sleeves with a lip (Stern part# 545-5076-00, Wms part# 03-7067-5) and tubing on each side (known as an "inline" sleeve) are used on kickers, knocker, etc.
• Flipper Plunger/Link: used when rebuilding flippers. Stern part# 515-5822-00, Williams part# A-15847 or A-10656.
• Flipper Link Spacer Bushings: these small bushings go inside the flipper links. Stern part# 530-5139-00.
• Flipper playfield nylon busing: Stern part# 545-5070-00.
• Entire flipper plunger, link and flipper pawl. Stern part# 515-5051-00 (same for both right and left side). This is the "old style" flipper pawl; the new style flipper parts (starting with Apollo13) are not interchangable with the older style parts.
• Flipper Coil Stops: used when rebuilding flippers. Stern part# 515-5346-00.
• Flipper Plastic Actuator: high wear part, activates the EOS switch. Stern part# 545-5084-00. Not included with the flipper pawl (515-5051-00) assembly.
• Flipper EOS Switch: Stern part# 180-5124-01.
• 1 1/16" Pinballs: a new pinball will make the playfield last longer.
• Leg Levelers: replace those old crummy looking leg levelers with brand new ones. 3" are used on solid state games.
• Rubber Rings: order game-specific ring kits with exactly the rings needed. Don't forget flipper rubbers and a shooter tip.
• Sockets: 14, 28 and 40 pin sockets chips.
• Connector pins and housings: used to repair burnt connectors (mostly on General Illumination). Molex .156" style connectors are most commonly used on these games. Trifurcon terminal pins and plastic .156" connector housings are also needed, along with .156" male header pins. Buy 12 pin connectors housings (Molex part# 26-03-4121) and cut to the size needed. Buy 12 pin male header pins too (12 pin Molex #26-48-1125). 156" Trifurcon terminal pins (three wipers), part# 08-52-0113 (tin plated phosphor bronze) for 18 to 20 guage wire (part# 08-52-0125 for 22-26 gauge wire). Tin plated phosphor bronze is the best pin material, as it has better spring, fatigue resistance and current capacity. But if this part number is not available, part# 08-50-0189 (tin plated brass) can be used instead.
• Connectors: power supply square style connector, 6 Pin (3 columns 2 rows), .093", PC Board Mounted. Molex Wafercon series, male pins at locations 1-5 and female pin at location 6, Molex #09-18-5061. Use with harness connector #03-09-1063 and female pins at locations 1-5 and male at location 6.
• Connectors: power supply square style connector, 12-Pin (4 columns 3 rows), 0.093", PC Board Mounted Molex Wafercon series. Female pin at location 1 and male pins at locations 2-12, Molex #09-18-5121. Use with harness connector #03-09-1126 and male pin at location 1 and female pins at locations 2-12.
Silicon:

• Transistors: keep a few TIP102, TIP42, TIP36c, TIP32c, 2N3906, 2N3904, 2N4401, 2N5060 transistors around.
• MosFETs: keep a few IRL540 MosFETs around.
• Diodes: keep a few 1N4004 diodes around.
• Bridge Rectifiers: keep an extra 35 amp, 200 volt (or higher) bridge rectifier around, with lug leads. The industry part number is MB3502, Stern part# 112-5000-00.
• 6821 PIA chip: have several around as the CPU board uses 6 of these PIA (Peripheral Interface Adaptor) chips.
• 6808 or 6802 CPU chip: have either one around for the CPU board. The 6802 is much easier to find (and more versatile), as the 6808 is largely unavailable (the 6808 is a 6802 without the onboard RAM). Either works equally well.
• 7402 and 7408 TTL chips for driving coils.
• 74LS273 chips.
• 2064C or 6264 CMOS RAM chip (28 pins): have either one of these around for the CPU board. But note earlier DataEast CPU boards use a 6116 RAM (24 pins).

Order the transistors and diodes from many sources as listed on the suggested parts & repair sources web page.

Knowing what board generations are in your game is important. This information will allow swaping of boards between games for testing.

The backbox from a DataEast Laser War, their first game. Notice the power supply at the upper right and a small 50 volt coil (MRB) board below it (no PPB board). The stereo sound board is at the upper left.

The backbox from a DataEast Playboy, their fifth game. Only Laser War and Secret Service (the first two games) used a Williams System11A clone backbox layout with the power supply at the upper right and a 50 volt coil (MRB) board. All other DataEast games looked like this, using the PPB board and having the power supply mounted at the upper left.

The backbox from a DataEast Tommy, which utilizes a dot matrix display. It doesn't really look any different than the Playboy seen above! (Other than the different sound boards.) Notice the connector at the upper right corner of the CPU board is not used because Tommy has CPU controlled Special Solenoids.

CPU Board Generations.
There are three different "official" generations of the DataEast pinball CPU systems. All boards use a 6808 (or 6802) CPU chip, and are essentially a copy of Williams' System 11 CPU board (without the on-board sound circuitry). These are known as Version 1, Version 2, and Version 3. There is actually one other slightly different version of Version 3, which I call version "3b".
• Version 1 (#520-5003-01): Only used for part of the production of DataEast's first game (Laser War). The RAM at location 5D is a 2K (24 pin) 6016 RAM.
• Version 2 (#520-5003-02): Used from Laser War (partial production) to Phantom of the Opera. The RAM at location 5D is an 8K (28 pin) 6064 RAM.
• Version 3 (#520-5003-03): Used from Back to the Future to Batman Forever. Uses "non-reflexive" (CPU controled) circuitry for the kickers and pop bumpers. Version 3b (my term) is the same as Version 3, but 3 extra pins added at connector CN3 for a printer option (Last Action Hero to Batman Forever). Note some version3 boards may or may not have the extra pins at CN3 for the printer option. If your mating female harness plug is 3pins longer than the male CN3 plug, just hang it over the edge (assuming the key pin is installed properly).

CPU board from Laser Wars, the Version 1 board.

All DataEast/Sega CPU boards are downward compatible (so Version 3 could be used in a Version 1 or Version 2 game). However, it is not possible to use a CPU Version 2 board in a Version 3 game, since the non-reflexive (CPU controlled) special coil circuitry used in Revision 3 does not exist in a Version 2 CPU board. Also, to modify a Revision 3 CPU board to work in Laser War (Revision 1), some modifications to the board must be performed. Check out DataEast service bulletin number 6 for this modification, by clicking here.

CPU Jumpers.
Depending on the number and size of EPROMs installed on the CPU board, different jumpers need to be set. This is especially the case when moving the CPU board to a different game.

Essentially there are only two jumpers used in all DataEast/Sega games: J4 and J5. These two jumpers dictate the size of the CPU EPROM used at location 5C. On games Laser War to Batman, jumper J4 should be installed and jumber J5 removed (these games use a 27256 at location 5C, and a 27128 or a 27256 at 5B). On games Star Trek 25th to Batman Forever (which uses a single 27512 EPROM at 5C and no EPROM at 5B), jumper J5 should be installed and jumper J4 removed.

To sumarize...
27256 EPROM at location 5C, and a 27128 or 27256 at location 5B (typically games Laser War to Batman):

• jumper J4 installed.
• jumber J5 removed

27512 EPROM at location 5C, no EPROM at location 5B (typically games Star Trek 25th to Batman Forever):

• jumper J4 removed.
• jumper J5 installed.

EPROM jumpers J4/J5 on a DataEast Simpsons. This game is set for a 27256 at 5C and a 27128 or 27256 at 5B.

There are addtional CPU jumpers, but they should never be changed. Here is the list of all the jumpers, and their functions:
• J1=Clock speed
• J2/J3=Address line 14, high or connected to the CPU.
• J4/J5=Address line 15, high or connected to the CPU.
• J6=unknown
• J7=IRQ speed
• J8=PIA 11B port A7 (used for the blanking circuit)

Deger Design Flipper Circuit.
On Playboy and Monday Night Football, DataEast changed to a single winding coil (instead of the traditional two windings, one for low resistance high power, and one for high resistance low power hold). The single winding coil had high voltage delivered for the initial power, and lower voltage for the flipper hold. When the flipper button was pressed, 50 volts DC was directed to the single wound flipper coil. When the normally closed EOS switch was opened, the high power was turned off. A low voltage (9 volts) was then supplied to the flipper coil, through a 1N5404 (400 volt, 3 amp) diode, mounted directly on the coil. This allowed the player to hold in the flipper button for as long as desired, without the flipper coil overheating. This circuit was designed by Mr. Kurt Deger, and is hence called the "Deger design".

The Deger Design single winding flipper coil circuit as used on Playboy and Monday Night Football only.

For Playboy and Monday Night Football, the flipper coils had two diodes on them. One was a standard 1N4004 "voltage snubbing" diode. This prevented a backlash of power going backwards through the system, when the flipper coil's magnetic field collapsed. The second diode, a 1N5404 (400 volt, 3 amp), provided half-wave voltage rectification. This second 1N5404 diode was only used on Playboy and Monday Night Football. It was not needed for the next generation flipper system.

Solid State Flipper Board (SSFB) Generations.
DataEast was the first company to use solid state flippers starting with Robocop. This solid state design again used a single wound coil (instead of the traditional two windings, one for high voltage, and one for low voltage hold). A solid state version of the Deger design, the single wound coil had different voltages for the initial power and the flipper hold (only one diode, a 1N4004 "voltage snubbing" diode, was used). When the flipper button was pressed, 50 volts DC was directed to the single wound flipper coil. After a short duration (40 milli-seconds, which was not variable), the high power was turned off and 9 volts was left to hold the flipper coil. The lower 9 volts allowed the flipper button to be held, without burning the flipper coil. Note this was different than the solid state flipper system used by Williams; which used two separate flipper coil windings (a high and low power winding) in their design.

DataEast put out a nice service bulletin on the operations of their solid state flipper design. This is bulletin number 49, and is available by clicking here, and here.

There were some complaints that the new solid state DataEast flippers didn't have the same feel as a traditional EOS (End Of Stroke) system flipper. This was because DataEast/Sega's design had a fixed timing (40 milliseconds) for the high voltage (unlike Williams games, whose electronic flippers reacted to the EOS switch, and turned off the high voltage accordingly).

With Jurassic Park, DataEast implemented an EOS solid state flipper design. Unlike Williams, DataEast's solid state EOS switch was normally closed. The amount of time the high voltage was turned on to the flipper coil was still fixed, and not controlled by the EOS switch. The EOS switch was implemented for a different reason. When the ball hit an energized flipper bat, and knocked the flipper backwards (opening the EOS switch), the flipper would be pulsed again with the high voltage for the same fixed time (this was accomplished by the EOS switch connected in series with the cabinet flipper switch). This ensured the held flipper would stay in the up position for the player. This was done because of features implemented on Jurassic Park and Last Action Hero. The "Raptor Pit" and the "Ripper" would fire a ball back at the flipper at high speed. This EOS switch was kept for all games after Jurassic Park and Last Action Hero.

A pair of solid state flipper boards on the left inside of the cabinet, below the playfield. Note the back flipper board still has its factory original cardboard shorting cover. These are flipper board #520-5080-00, as used on WWF and Baywatch.

Solid state Flipper Board Problems on JP, LAH, TftC.
On the games Jurassic Park, Last Action Hero, and Tales from the Crypt there is a design problem with their flipper boards, #520-5033-03 (3 flippers, used on JP and TftC) and #520-5070-00 (2 flippers, used on LAH). Games with these board use a normally closed EOS switch on the two lower flippers (only). If an EOS switch is broken or mis-adjusted so it is not normally closed, its corresponding lower flipper will not work (but the upper flipper, if the game has one, will work). This problem was corrected with version #520-5076-00 (3 flippers) and #520-5080-00 (2 flippers), as used on games Tommy and later. The newer #520-5076-00 and #520-5080-00 are backwards compatible. Additionally, starting with Tales from the Crypt, the EOS switch became more robust. This newer EOS switch design is easy to identify because of a "bend" near the end of the switch blade.

With the start of Tommy production (after JP, LAH and Tales from the Crypt), the flipper board and EOS switch changed again. The new 3 flipper board (#520-5076-00) is backwards compatible to JP and TftC's flipper board (#520-5033-03). The new 2 flipper board (#520-5080-00) is backwards compatible to LAH's flipper board (#520-5070-00). These new revisions removed the broken EOS switch problem.

The JP, LAH and TftC flipper boards can be modified to work correctly, like the later flipper boards. DataEast service bulletin number 54 describes this procedure. To view this service bulletin, click here, here, and here.

Flipper board evolution:

• #520-5033-00: Robocop to Rocky & Bullwinkle. Supports two flippers, and did not use an EOS switch on the flipper coils (this version was also used as a test on about 100 Playboy 35th games, and 100 Monday Night Football games).
• #520-5033-03: Jurassic Park, Tales from the Crypt. Supports three flippers, and uses an EOS switch on the flipper coils. This board had a design error such that if the EOS switch was broken, then the flipper would not work. Hence it was replaced by #520-5076-00.
• #520-5070-00: Last Action Hero only. Supports two flippers, and uses an EOS switch on the flipper coils. This board had a design error such that if the EOS switch was broken, then the flipper would not work. Hence it was replaced by #520-5080-00.
• #520-5076-00: Jurassic Park to Batman Forever. Supports three flippers and EOS switches on the flipper coils. Can be used on Jurassic Park and Tales from the Crypt to replace #520-5033-03.
• #520-5080-00: Only used on WWF Royal Rumble and Baywatch (plus Apollo13 and Goldeneye, but these are "Whitestar" version games and not covered in this guide). Supports two flippers with EOS switches. Can also be used on Last Action Hero to replace #520-5070-00.

As interesting trivia, the acronym "TY-FFASI" can be seen silk screened on many of these solid state flipper boards. In the early 1990s, Williams was suing DataEast for a range of things, from board design to playfield plagiarism. DataEast responded with this acronym, which means, "take your fu**ing flippers and stick it".

A special note to the lawyers at Williams gaming, silk screened on many solid state flipper boards.

Using a Newer Flipper Board on Playboy to Rocky & Bullwinkle.
Games Robocop to Rocky & Bullwinkle (or Playboy and Monday Night Football test games) do not use an EOS switch for the solid state flipper board #520-5033-00. The newer flipper board #520-5080-00 (which supports an EOS switch) can be adapted to work on these older games. The original board 520-5033-00 is no longer available too, so this modification is important if the entire flipper board on these older games needs replacing.

Here are the modifications steps to use the newer flipper board 520-5080-00 in older non-EOS switch games:

• On the component side of the flipper board 520-5080-00, find the connector labeled CN1. Cut the extruding pin number 10 completely off of the board, so it cannot connect to the wiring harness. For reference, pin 2 is the "key" pin.
• On the solder side of the flipper board, add a jumper wire across capacitor C10. This will essentially short out the capacitor, rendering it useless. This capacitor is located right next to the CN1 pin 10, which was cut in the previous step.
• On the solder side of the flipper board, add a jumper wire between connector CN1 pin 1 and pin 2. For reference, pin 2 is the "key" pin.
• On the solder side of the flipper board, add a jumper wire between connector CN1 pin 6 and pin 7. For reference, pin 2 is the "key" pin.
• On the solder side of the flipper board, there is a trace on connector CN1 that runs from pin 2 to pin 7. Cut this trace with an Exacto knife. For reference, pin 2 is the "key" pin.
• Label the board as modified and for use in games without EOS switches.
The original Sega service bulletin number 103 for this modification (including circuit board pictures) can be seen by clicking here and here.

Power Supply from Laser Wars (and used to Simpsons).

Power Supply Board (PSB) Generations.
Power supply boards were changed when different score display power requirements were needed (or the number of flippers changed). Because of this, power supply boards are NOT downward or upward compatible! QUESTION FOR JOE: Apparently most power supplies used in Lethal Weapon and later are labeled "520-5047-00 REV X". The "X" in the "REV" seems to be A, B or C. Is "REV C" the same as "520-5047-03"?
• #520-5000-00: used from Laser War to the Simpsons. This power supply was designed to be used with alpha-numeric score displays. On the -00 power supply revision will work in these games (none of the newer revisions will work because they do not generate +100 volts). CN5 (power to the display) is a 6 pin connector.
• #520-5047-00: used from Checkpoint to Hook. This power supply was designed to be used with the small (128x16) dot matrix score display. Two negative high volts (-98 and -110) plus 68 volts are generated for the score display. CN5 (power to the display) is a 7 pin connector.
• #520-5047-01: used on Lethal Weapon 3, Star Wars, and Rocky & Bullwinkle only. These are two flipper, large (128x32) dot matrix score display games. CN5 (power to the display) is a 7 pin connector.
• #520-5047-02: used from Jurassic Park to Guns N' Roses. This power supply supported three flippers and the larger (128x32) dot matrix score display. The only difference between -01 and -02 is connector CN7 (which is the control for the GI relay). The -02 CN7 has five pins, and the -01 CN7 has three pins. The added two pins on the -02 CN7 is for unregulated 12 volts. The -02 power supply is downward compatible to games using the -01 power supply (the three pin CN7 wire can be plugged into the five pin -02 CN7 without modification assuming the key pin is in place on the CN7 connector housing). CN5 (power to the display) is a 7 pin connector.
• #520-5047-03: used on Maverick to Batman Forever, and supported the super-size (192x64) dot matrix score display. No high voltage was generated on this power supply. CN5 (power to the display) is a 8 pin connector.

7-digit Score display system only used on Laser Wars.

Score Display & Display Board Generations.
DataEast had several interesting innovations regarding displays. They were the first pinball company to use a dot matrix display (DMD), and the only company to ever use the super-size 192x64 DMD.
• The first system of score displays was only used on Laser War. It had a master display board (#520-5004-00) which controlled all the displays through other slave display boards. This included two 7 digit 16 segment alpha-numeric displays (display boards #520-5005-00), two 7 digit 7 segment numeric displays (display boards #520-5006-00), and one 4 digit 7 segment numeric display (display board #520-5007-00).
• Four combined 7 digit 16 segment alpha-numeric displays: used from Secret Service to Playboy. Display board #520-5014-01.
• Two 16 digit 16 segment alpha-numeric displays: used from Monday Night Football to the Simpsons. Display board #520-5030-00.
• Small 128x16 line dot matrix display: used from Checkpoint to Hook. Display board #520-5042-00.
• Large 128x32 line dot matrix display: used from Lethal Weapon 3 to Guns N Roses. This "normal" sized dot matrix display used display board #520-5052-00.
• Super-sized 192x64 dot matrix display: used from Maverick to Batman Forever. Display board #520-5075-00.

The MRB board used on Secret Service. This pre-dates the PPB board used on all later games.

Playfield Power Board (MRB and PPB) Generations.
DataEast/Sega used three different playfield power boards. The PPB (Popcorn Popper Board) is downward compatible, but not to games with the MRB (Marshmellow Roasting Board - these strange board abbreviations are explained in a later section of this document). The PPB and MRB board held all the flashlamp power resistors. Since the 12 volt flashlamps were powered by the 25 volt solenoid voltage, large 10 watt (usually 4 to 7 ohm) resistors were needed to decrease the current to the 12 volts bulbs (otherwise the 25 volts would immediately kill the 12 volt flashlamps). The PPB and MRB boards housed all these large resistors. The PPB boards also held the TIP36 transistors used for the high voltage 50 volt coils (these TIP36 transistors are pre-driven by CPU board mounted TIP122 transistors). Note TIP36 transistors were not used in games with MRB boards. These games instead used under-playfield-mounted relays instead of TIP36 transistors to power 50 volt coils.
• 50 volt coil board, used on Laser Wars only.
• #520-5015-00: MRB board, used on Secret Service only. There is a separate 50 volts power supply (and hence, no TIP36c transistors are used anywhere in the game).
• #520-5021-00: PPB board, used from Torpedo Alley to Jurassic Park. Easily identified because it has six fuses. Handles 50 volt power, and holds five TIP36c transistors which are used to ground the 50 volt coils.
• #520-5021-05: PPB board, used from Jurassic Park (late in the production run) to Batman Forever. Easily identified because it has nine fuses.

SMIG Board.
On Secret Service the MRB board did not control ground to the 50 volt coils. So on Laser Wars and Secret Service a small board called the SMIG board was used, mounted under the playfield. In addition, a backbox mounted 50 volt power board was installed. This board was identical to the 50 volt "flipper power board" used on System11 games prior to Big Guns.

The SMIG board's relay uses a CPU TIP122 driver transistor to turn the 32 volt relay on. This in turn completes the ground path for 50 volts to the desired coil.

50 volt coil power board on Laser Wars and Secret Service.

Sound Board Generations.
There are several generations of sound boards used in DataEast/Sega games. As the games got more advanced, the sound storage requirements grew accordingly. These sound boards are NOT upward or downward compatible.
• #520-5002-00: only used on Laser War, for part of the production. Used 27256 EPROMs.
• #520-5002-02: used from Laser War to Back to the Future. Only difference between this boards and the prior -00 variant is the size of the sound EPROMs they address. This version used both 27256 and 27512 EPROMs.
• #520-5002-03: used on the Simpsons, Checkpoint, and Teenage Mutant Turtles. This board allowed the two voice EPROMs to be as large as 27010 EPROMs.
• #520-5050-01: used from Batman to Lethal Weapon 3. Allowed the voice EPROMs to be as large as 27020.
• #520-5050-02: used on Star Wars, Rocky & Bullwinkle, and Jurassic Park. This sound board allowed the voice EPROMs to be as large as 27040.
• #520-5050-00: used on Star Wars and maybe some other games. Uses a 27256 or 27512 EPROM at U7 and two voice EPROMs up to 27040 at U17/U21. BSMT2000 equiped and appears to be more flexible than the 5050-01 or 5050-02 revision. No further info known on this board.
• #520-5050-03: used on Last Action Hero, Tales from the Cyrpt, and Maverick. Very similar to the -02 generation (addressing 27040 EPROMs). No further info known on this board.
• #520-5077-00: used on Tommy, WWF, Guns N Roses, and Frankenstein. This board was a completely new design, and allowed up to four 27040 voice EPROMs.
• #520-5126-02: used on Baywatch and Batman Forever. No further info known on this board.

First generation stereo sound board from Laser Wars.

The Dot Matrix Controller Board.
DataEast/Sega games Checkpoint and later with a dot matrix display have a dot matrix controller board. This board has separate CPU and EPROM chips which only handle the dot matrix score display animations. This CPU is in addition to the CPU board's 6808 (or 6802) CPU chip, which controls the lamps, solenoids, switches, games rules, etc. These boards are NOT upward or downward compatible.
• Checkpoint to Hook (128x16 dot display): Z80A CPU. This dot matrix controller is mounted right to the back of the dot matrix score display glass itself.
• Lethal Weapon to Guns N Roses (128x32 dot display): 68B09 CPU on a separate controller board mounted behind the display glass, #520-5055-00 (Lethal Weapon to Last Action Hero) or #520-5055-01 (Tales from the Crypt to Guns N Roses).
• Maverick to Batman Forever (192x64 dot display): 68000 CPU on a separate controller board mounted behind the display glass, #520-5092-01.

Cabinet Changes.
Starting with the game Guns N Roses, DataEast changed the positioning of their legs. Now when all four leg levelers were screwed in all the way, the game should be properly "leveled" at 6.5 degrees (the optimal playing pitch). Any adjustment to the leg levelers should be only for uneven floors. DataEast/Sega did not recommend having the game any steeper than 6.5 degrees.

The backbox design changed with Guns N Roses too. The backbox door swings open from hinges on the right hand side (instead of the left). Also the swinging door is easily removable by just disconnecting the two wiring connectors, and pushing the door straight up off the hinge pivot points.

Starting with Ninja Turtles, the playfield mounting was changed. Prior to Turtles, the playfields had a single pivot point which allowed the playfield to rotate up vertically. With Turtles and all later games, a playfield slide bracket was implemented. This allowed the entire playfield to be pulled forward about ten inches. This allowed for easy repair to the top portion of the playfield (where the pop bumpers reside, for example). After the playfield is pulled forward, it could then be tilted up vertically against the backbox.

Playfield Glass Sizes (and Wide Body Games).
DataEast/Sega made three "wide body" games: Guns N Roses, WWF Royal Rumble, and Batman Forever. Because these game have a larger playfield than all the other games, the wide body playfield glass size is 23.75" by 43" by 3/16" thick. This is incorrectly stated in the GNR and WWF game manuals. The standard size playfield glass, for all the other DataEast/Sega games, is 21" by 43" by 3/16" thick. In all cases, the glass should be "tempered" for safety.

Game List and Board Revision Table
Game, date	CPU	Power Supply	MRB/PPB	Display	Sound	Flippers
Laser War, 5/87 (two 7 digit A/N displays, two 7 digit numeric displays, one 4 digit numeric display)	Rev 1 (one 27256@5C) or Rev 2 (27128@5B and 27256@5C)	520-5000-00	MRB: 520-5015-00 SMIG:	Master: 520-5004-00 (2) 7 Digit A/N: 520-5005-00 (2) 7 Digit N: 520-5006-00 4 Digit N: 520-5007-00	520-5002-00 or 520-5002-02	Normal 3 Lug flipper coil and EOS switch
Secret Service, 3/88 (four 7 digit A/N displays)	Rev 2 27128@5b 27256@5c	520-5000-00	MRB: 520-5015-00 SMIG:	(4) 7 Digit A/N: 520-5014-01	520-5002-02	Normal 3 Lug flipper coil and EOS switch
Torpedo Alley, 8/88	Rev 2 27128@5b 27256@5c	520-5000-00	PPB: 520-5021-00	(4) 7 Digit A/N: 520-5014-01	520-5002-02	Normal 3 Lug flipper coil and EOS switch
Time Machine*, 12/88	Rev 2 27128@5b 27256@5c	520-5000-00	PPB: 520-5021-00	(4) 7 Digit A/N: 520-5014-01	520-5002-02	Normal 3 Lug flipper coil and EOS switch
Playboy 35th Anniversary*, 5/89 (start of single wound flipper coil)	Rev 2 27128@5b 27256@5c	520-5000-00	PPB: 520-5021-00	(4) 7 Digit A/N: 520-5014-01	520-5002-02	Deger flippers with 2 Lug flipper coil using a 1N4004 and 1N5404 diodes (except on 100 test games with 520-5033-00 SS flipper board).
ABC Monday Night Football*, 9/89 (start of two 16 digit A/N displays)	Rev 2 27128@5b 27256@5c	520-5000-00	PPB: 520-5021-00	(2) 16 Digit A/N: 520-5030-00	520-5002-02	Deger flippers with 2 Lug flipper coil using a 1N4004 and 1N5404 diodes (except on 100 test games with 520-5033-00 SS flipper board).
Robocop*, 11/89 (first full game with solid state flippers)	Rev 2 27128@5b 27256@5c	520-5000-00	PPB: 520-5021-00	(2) 16 Digit A/N: 520-5030-00	520-5002-02	520-5033-00 SS Flipper board 2 flippers with 2 Lug flipper coil and one 1N4004 diode
Phantom of the Opera*, 1/90	Rev 2 27128@5b 27256@5c	520-5000-00	PPB: 520-5021-00	(2) 16 Digit A/N: 520-5030-00	520-5002-02	520-5033-00 2 flippers
Back to the Future*, 6/90	Rev 3 27128@5b 27256@5c (start of non-reflexive special coils)	520-5000-00	PPB: 520-5021-00	(2) 16 Digit A/N: 520-5030-00	520-5002-02	520-5033-00 2 flippers
The Simpsons*, 9/90	Rev 3 27128@5b 27256@5c	520-5000-00	PPB: 520-5021-00	(2) 16 Digit A/N: 520-5030-00	520-5002-03	520-5033-00 2 flippers
Checkpoint, 2/91 (first game with 128x16 DMD)	Rev 3 27128@5b 27256@5c	520-5047-00	PPB: 520-5021-00	128x16 DMD: 520-5042-00	520-5002-03	520-5033-00 2 flippers
Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles, 5/91	Rev 3 27128@5b 27256@5c	520-5047-00	PPB: 520-5021-00	128x16 DMD: 520-5042-00	520-5002-03	520-5033-00 2 flippers
Batman, 7/91	Rev 3 27128@5b 27256@5c	520-5047-00	PPB: 520-5021-00	128x16 DMD: 520-5042-00	520-5050-01	520-5033-00 2 flippers
Star Trek 25th Anniversary, 10/91	Rev 3 27512@5c	520-5047-00	PPB: 520-5021-00	128x16 DMD: 520-5042-00	520-5050-01	520-5033-00 2 flippers
Hook, 1/92	Rev 3 27512@5c	520-5047-00	PPB: 520-5021-00	128x16 DMD: 520-5042-00	520-5050-01	520-5033-00 2 flippers
Lethal Weapon 3, 6/92 (first game with 128x32 DMD)	Rev 3 27512@5c	520-5047-01	PPB: 520-5021-00	128x32 DMD: 520-5052-00, Controller: 520-5055-00	520-5050-01	520-5033-00 2 flippers
Star Wars, 10/92	Rev 3 27512@5c	520-5047-01	PPB: 520-5021-00	128x32 DMD: 520-5052-00, Controller: 520-5055-00	520-5050-02	520-5033-00 2 flippers
Rocky & Bullwinkle, 2/93	Rev 3 27512@5c	520-5047-01	PPB: 520-5021-00	128x32 DMD: 520-5052-00, Controller: 520-5055-00	520-5050-02	520-5033-00 2 flippers
Jurassic Park, 4/93	Rev 3 27512@5c	520-5047-02	PPB: 520-5021-00 or 520-5021-05	128x32 DMD: 520-5052-00, Controller: 520-5055-00	520-5050-02	520-5033-03** 3 flippers. Replacable with 520-5076-00
Last Action Hero, 8/93	Rev 3b 27512@5c (added pins at connector CN3 for a printer)	520-5047-02	PPB: 520-5021-05	128x32 DMD: 520-5052-00, Controller: 520-5055-00	520-5050-03	520-5070-00*** 2 flippers. Replacable with 520-5080-00
Tales from the Crypt, 11/93	Rev 3b 27512@5c	520-5047-02	PPB: 520-5021-05	128x32 DMD: 520-5052-00, Controller: 520-5055-01	520-5050-03	520-5033-03** 3 flippers. Replacable with 520-5076-00
The Who's Tommy, 2/94	Rev 3b 27512@5c	520-5047-02	PPB: 520-5021-05	128x32 DMD: 520-5052-00, Controller: 520-5055-01	520-5077-00	520-5076-00 3 flippers
WWF Royal Rumble, 5/94 (first game with a coin door coil power interlock switch) 27512@5c	Rev 3b	520-5047-02	PPB: 520-5021-05	128x32 DMD: 520-5052-00, Controller: 520-5055-01	520-5077-00	(2) 520-5080-00. 2x2 flippers
Guns N' Roses, 7/94	Rev 3b 27512@5c	520-5047-02	PPB: 520-5021-05	128x32 DMD: 520-5052-00, Controller: 520-5055-01	520-5077-00	520-5076-00 3 flippers
Maverick, 9/94 (start of 192x64 DMD)	Rev 3b 27512@5c	520-5047-03	PPB: 520-5021-05	192x64 DMD: 520-5075-00, Controller: 520-5092-01	520-5050-03	520-5076-00 3 flippers
Mary Shelley's Frankenstein, 12/94	Rev 3b 27512@5c	520-5047-03	PPB: 520-5021-05	192x64 DMD: 520-5075-00, Controller: 520-5092-01	520-5077-00	520-5076-00 3 flippers
Baywatch, 3/95	Rev 3b 27512@5c	520-5047-03	PPB: 520-5021-05	192x64 DMD: 520-5075-00, Controller: 520-5092-01	520-5126-02	(2) 520-5080-00. 2x2 flippers
Batman Forever, 7/95	Rev 3b 27512@5c	520-5047-03	PPB: 520-5021-05	192x64 DMD: 520-5075-00, Controller: 520-5092-01	520-5126-02	520-5076-00 3 flippers
Game, date	CPU	Power Supply	MRB/PPB	Display	Sound	Flippers

* These games had reversal of the L/R relay so the "L" bank used flashlamps instead of coils.
** This flipper board, if replaced, should be replaced with #520-5076-00.
*** This flipper board, if replaced, should be replaced with #520-5080-00.

Overview.
The DataEast pinball system can utilize a total of 16 (8x2) alternating power coils/flashlamps, and 14 constant power coils (of which 6 are "special coils"). All solenoids use TIP122/TIP102 or TIP36c transistors which complete the power circuit to ground.

Alternating Power Coils/Flashlamps (Multiplexing)
The basic concept is a "multiplexing" design. Sixteen power devices are controlled by an alternating two bank relay: the "L" and "R" bank (unfortunately, these banks are also known as "A" and "B"; this is inconsistent in many DataEast manuals). This allows one TIP122 transistor (CPU board TIP122 transistors Q39 to Q46) to control two devices (usually multiplexed between a solenoid and a flasher). Also an additional TIP36c transistor (on the PPB board) can be used in conjunction with a multiplexed TIP122 to drive a higher output device. The eight bank selected transistors can control 16 devices. The bank select relay controls which of the two devices any of the eight driving transistors control. The "L" (or "A") bank consists primarily of coils (except for games Time Machine to Simpsons, see below for details on this). The "R" (or "B") bank consists primarily of flasher lamps.

One thing DataEast/Sega did consistently was use brown wires for the "L" (or "A") side, and orange wires for the "R" (or "B") side (for power, from the PPB board to the device). Also the "L" side is always the same as the "A" side, and the "R" side is always the same as the "B" side.

If the bank select relay is not energized, solenoid power V+ is connected to bank "L". Then only the selected devices can be driven by the driver transistors. There is no power available to bank "R" (usually flashlamps). The "L" bank is usually reserved for coils.

When the bank select relay is energized via CPU transistor Q29, solenoid power V+ is connected to bank "R". Then only the selected devices can be driven by the driver transistors. There is no power available to bank "L" (solenoids). The "R" bank is usually reserved for flashlamps.

DataEast multiplexing of coils and flashers. Power starts at the PPB (right center). If the select relay is not energized, power goes to the "L" (left") side device, the coil. If the select relay is energized, power goes to the "R" (right) side devices, the flashlamps. The other side of each device then returns to the PPB board. For the flashers, this goes through a large sandstone resistor (which decreases the 32 volts down to 12 volts) and a diode. For the coils, this goes through a diode only. The circuit then completes to ground at the CPU board. Here the TIP122 transistor (in this case, Q39) completes the circuit to ground. By the way, "P/O" stands for "Pin/Out".

TIP36c Transistors.
When the PPB board was implemented on DataEast's third game (Torpedo Alley and later), TIP36c transistors were used to control the high voltage (50 volt) coils. These transistors are usually used in conjuction with the multiplexed TIP122 transistors at Q39 to Q46; the TIP122 transistor acts as a "pre-driver" for the TIP36c transistor (there is even a pre-driver for the TIP122 too). This is done to isolate the CPU logic circuit from the high voltage device. So the TIP36c controls the highest voltage, which is pre-driven by a smaller TIP122, which in turn is pre-driven by an even smaller 2N4401 transistor. Every TIP36c must use a TIP122/TIP102 pre-driver.

DataEast multiplexing of 32 volt and 50 volt coils. Here the power starts at the PPB (top right). For the 50 volt up-kicker coil, the power, after going through the coil, goes back to the PPB board's Q5 (TIP36c) transistor and D3 diode. It then goes to the CPU board's multiplexing Q44 (TIP122) transistor, which completes the path to ground.

DataEast usage of a 50 volt VUK (Vertical Up Kicker) coil without multiplexing. Here the PPB board's TIP36c transistor Q2 is predriven by a CPU board's "constant power" TIP122 transistor Q24.

Constant Power Coils.
Transistors Q8 to Q13 (TIP122, special coils) and Q23 to Q30 (TIP122) on the CPU board control constant power devices. These devices are not multiplexed, and hence always have constant power available to them.

The Six Special Coils (Switched Solenoids).
DataEast originally did not have CPU control of the "special coils". DataEast/Sega sometimes called them "switched solenoids" (where Williams called these the "special solenoids"). These six constant power coils comprised the pop bumpers, kicking rubbers (slingshots), and kickback solenoids. They are controlled by TIP122 transistors Q8 to Q13 on the CPU board. The original theory behind this was: since these items needed instant response, having them controlled by the CPU would add enough of a delay to slow the solenoids down. After all, the CPU had to sense a switch closure of a pop bumper, then turn on a transistor which would fire the pop bumper coil. It was believed that this would not happen fast enough for good game play.

The down side to this was when a pop bumper switch was stuck on, the coil would stay locked on (or "machine gun") and eventually either burn the coil or blow a fuse. This special coil system also required a redundant switch. This switch was part of the switch matrix, and only controlled the scoring for this device.

Fuses for the Special Coils.
Each special coil had to have its own fuse to prevent melt-down if the activating switch got stuck on. These fuses were installed starting with Monday Night Football. In games Laser War to Playboy, a fuse holder and a 2.5 amp slo-blo fuse should be installed under the playfield, to the blue wire for each special coil. This was indicated in DataEast service bulletin number 20. It also suggested checking that the pop bumper "spoon" switches were adjusted correctly, the special coils were mounted tightly in their brackets, and the metal pop bumper "yokes" were not broken.

Eventually DataEast changed their mind on these "special coils", and made them CPU controlled. DataEast referred to the CPU control of these coils as "non-reflexive" circuitry. This means, regardless of how long a solenoid's switch was closed, the solenoid would be energized only once by the CPU, and for a pre-determined time. With this design, when a switch got stuck closed, the coil would not lock on or "machine gun" and burn (or blow a fuse). DataEast implemented this "non-reflexive" circuit with Version 3 of their CPU board (Back to the Future).

Reversal of the L & R Relay Sides.
On the games Time Machine to Simpsons (seven games), DataEast designed the power distribution through the PPB's L/R relay (K1) in "reverse". That is, with the relay unenergized, the "L" side powered the flashlamps instead of the coils. This was a design error! Often the L/R relay would get cold solder joints, and simply not work. This meant if a player started a game, only the flashlamps would light (and the game could not be played). If the coils were on the "L" side of the relay, at least the game could be played (or partially played, but without the flashlamps). This error can not be fixed without changes to the software, and changes to the wiring (we could change the wiring, but unfortunately we can not change the game's software).

The other problem with this design presents itself when a TIP122 transistor fails (shorts). If any of the related TIP122 transistors short to ground (leaving a permanent ground path for the related device), that "L" side device will lock on (as soon as power is turned on to the game). In the "normal" design, this meant a coil would lock on. This was good; it would be obvious to the operator, and the coil would draw enough power to blow its associated fuse. However with games Time Machine to Simpsons, the "L" side device was as flashlamp. This would lock on the flashlamp, which did not draw enough power to blow its associated fuse. Worse, these flashlamps would get so hot they could melt playfield plastics!

DataEast realized the error they made, and corrected the design so the "L" side connected to coils (as done previously), and not flashlamps.

More L/R Relay Problems.
In regards to the L/R relay on the PPB board, other problems can be seen (even on games where the L/R sides are not reversed). For example, on the 1992 Star Wars game, it can instantly starts multi-ball mode when a game is started. Balls just keep popping into the shooter lane and then are shot onto the playfield.

This is an incredibly common problem, and is very confusing. This problem is nearly always cold solder joints on the "L/R" relay, on the PPB board. Because this relay (when not energized) defaults to activating the solenoids, any attempt by the game to light a flash lamp (for example, when a game is started), will instead activate the associated solenoid. The flasher paired with the ball popper is supposed to light, but instead another ball gets placed in the shooter lane. DataEast's auto-ball-fire games all have a 'lightning ball' feature which automatically launches a ball in the shooter lane onto the playfield. This gives the instant multi-ball. To fix this, check the L/R relay on the PPB board, and resolder the relay's solder joints.

This page in the DataEast manuals (in this case, Jurassic Park) is probably the most important page in the manual (the diagram here has been abbreviated for space). It shows the coils/flashlamps and their associated drive transistors. This page is in the "Flash Lamp/Coil Test" section, "Game Diagnostics" chapter.

This style coil chart starts appearing around Baywatch. Note the multiplexing coils, and the TIP122 (Q44) and TIP36c (Q5) transistors listed for device 3L. This table was a nice addition to the newer Sega manuals.

DataEast's MRB/PPB Playfield Power Boards.
MRB and PPB boards were used as intermediate locations for power and ground to be distributed to the playfield for the flashlamps and coils. Laser War and Secret Service used a "MRB" board. The term "MRB" means "Marshmallow Roasting Board". Starting with Torpedo Alley, this board was upgraded and called the "PPB" (officially "Playfield Power Board", but the unofficial name was the "Popcorn Popper Board"). These boards had these nicknames because they could get so hot, marshmallows or popcorn could be cooked on them (this is why cold solder joints are such a problem with these boards). The power boards were used to hold the:

• Bank select circuit and bank select relay.
• Bridge rectifiers that supply the solenoid power (previously these bridges were just bolted to the back of the backbox).
• Coil diodes.
• Flashlamp sandstone resistors.
• Solenoid fuses.
• Driver transistors (TIP36c) for the 50 volt devices. Used on the PPB board only (not on MRB board). This eliminated the small SMIG relay boards under the playfield, which controlled the ground switching for the 50 volt coils.

There is really no solution for the heat problems either, other than just being aware of the problem and what it causes (potential cold solder joints).

DataEast's PPB board (the equivalent to Williams' Auxiliary Power Driver board). This PPB board is located in the backbox beneath the CPU board.

DataEast Flipper Coils - Overview.
Starting with Playboy, DataEast changed from a traditional two winding flipper coil to a single winding flipper coil. This new "Deger design" flipper coil had only two solder lugs, instead of three. The (normally closed) EOS switch now varied the voltage (from 50 volts to 9 volts) going to the flipper coil, instead of changing the overall resistance of the flipper coil (and using a single high voltage). This made the flipper coil design a bit simpler. DataEast did this in preparation for a solid state flipper design.

The DataEast/Sega Solid State Flipper Board.
DataEast was the first company to use solid state flippers with their 1989 release "RoboCop" (two games after "Playboy"). The concept was simple. After the player pressed the cabinet flipper switch, turn on the high power voltage to the flipper coil for only a short, fixed period of time (40 milliseconds). After 40 ms turn off the high power and leave the low power on for as long as the player held the flipper cabinet button.

DataEast/Sega used several different versions of their solid state flipper board. The first version supported just two flippers, and did not use an EOS switch on the flipper coils. Later versions supported two or three flippers and used an EOS switch on the flipper coils.

The advantages of this solid state flipper system were many:

• No more resistive or burnt high voltage EOS switches to weaken the flippers.
• No burnt flipper coils because of a mis-adjusted EOS switch that did not turn off the high-powered side of the flipper coil
• No maintainence of an EOS switch (but an EOS switch was added later).
• Less flipper parts (lower cost).

The first generation of DataEast's solid state flipper board. They are always located on the side of the cabinet under the playfield.

DataEast's solid state flippers were a great idea. However many players complained that they had a different "feel" to them (because of the lack of an EOS switch to turn the high powered side of the flipper coil off). DataEast changed their solid state flipper design in 1993 with Jurassic Park and added EOS switches back into the design. The high power was still turned on for a fixed period of time (40 milliseconds), but now if the EOS switch was closed again, the flipper board would pulse the high voltage again. This kept a held flipper in position if the flipper bat got knocked backwards from a high speed pinball.

Solid State Flipper Board Problems on JP, LAH, TftC.
On the games Jurassic Park, Last Action Hero, and Tales from the Crypt there is a problem with their flipper board, #520-5033-03 (3 flipper, as used on JP and TftC) and #520-5070-00 (2 flipper, as used on LAH). These three games all use a normally closed EOS switch on the two lower flippers (only). If an EOS switch is broken or mis-adjusted so it is not normally closed, its corresponding lower flipper will not work! (But the upper flipper, if the game has one, will continue to work.) This problem was fixed with version #520-5076-00 (3 flippers) and #520-5080-00 (2 flippers), as used on games Tommy and later. Also the newer #520-5076-00 and #520-5080-00 are backwards compatible. The EOS switch was also changed to be more robust on Tales from the Crypt. This new EOS switch design is easy to identify because of the "bend" near the end of the switch blade.

Easy Damage to the Solid State Flipper board.
The DataEast solid state flipper board(s) are not in the backbox. They are located in the lower cabinet, below the playfield. Starting with Ninja Turtles flipper board damage can occur because of the board's location (Turtles was the first game with playfield sliding rails, allowing the playfield to slide forward for easier repair). This happens when the playfield, in the raised position, gets tilted, and falls off the cabinet mounting slide rails. This especially happens if the game's prop rod is used, and the playfield is not straight on its mounting slide rails.

The best way to avoid damage is to just be careful! When raising the playfield, don't let the playfield get tilted or angled. Also try not to use the playfield prop rod. If it is used, make sure the playfield is straight on the slide rails, and won't fall inside the cabinet.

Damage to a solid state flipper board. This happened because the playfield fell off its mounting rails, and damaged the board. This is VERY common. Usually it tears up the flipper board much more than this! Since the SR1 and SR2 transistors with heat sinks stick out the most, they usually get ripped completely off.

There are two styles of diagnostics used on DataEast and Sega games.

Easy A-Just Diagnostics.
Laser War to Frankenstein used the "Easy A-Just" diagnostic system. These diagnostics were similar to the type used in Williams' System 11 games. There were two buttons inside the coin door. One button is a momentary style (black) switch, the other an up/down (on/off) style push button (green) switch.

The DataEast/Sega "Easy A-Just" diagnostic buttons.

To enter diagnostics from attract mode, the green up/down button must be in the "down" position (if this button is "up", the adjustments/audits will be seen instead). When this button is in the desired position, press the black momentary button.

On games before Frankenstein, once in diagnostics, the position of the up/down green button does not matter. The menu items will be stepped through from first to last in sequential order (this was changed for Frankenstein). The position of the green button determines the menu direction the black momentary "step" button will take, either forward or backwards through the menu items. Pressing the black momentary "step" button will move forward through the menu items. If a value is to be changed, press the game's start button. When the desired change is indicated, press the black momentary button to accept the change.

To exit the system, hold the black momentary button down. This will quickly scroll past all the other options. When the end is reached, the game will re-boot.

There is an adjustment to "expand the adjustments". If free play is desired (or other expanded adjustments), set this option to "yes", and continue scrolling through the adjustments.

Adjustments/Audits.
If audits/adjustments is desired, put the green button in the "up" position, and press the black momentary button. Entering changes is the same as described above.

Portals Service Menu.
Starting with Baywatch (the game after Frankenstein), Sega implemented an icon based "portal" service menu system. This system also used two buttons, however now both buttons are momentary (Apollo13's Whitestar system and later used three buttons). To enter the system, press the black momentary button. The "portals" menu system will come up on the display.

The portals coin door buttons.

Once in the portal, use the flipper buttons to move left or right (or the coin door green momentary button to move right), to navigate from icon to icon. Press the game's start button (or the black coin door buttom) to select an icon. The "Prev" icon will take the user back a step, and the "Quit" icon will quit the portal and reboot the game.

The portal main menu.

On early production Baywatch games, the green coin door button was mistakenly left as an up/down style button. If this button was in the down position, and the portals was entered via the black momentary button, the menu icons will continually scroll to the right. To stop this, press the green button into the up position. This switch can either be replaced or modified to fix this problem.

To modify the green up/down switch into a momentary switch needed for the portals is simple. Just remove the portals switch bracket from the coin door by removing the two phillips head screws that secure it. On the green button will be a silver "C" shaped wire form. Removing this "C" shaped wire form will convert the switch to a momentary style switch. Use the black momentary switch as a reference, as this switch will not have this "C" shaped wire form. This was mentioned in Sega's service bulletin number 74, and can be viewed here and here.

A very good idea for any unknown game just purchased is to check all the coils' resistance. If the game is new to you, and you have not powered it on, a quick check of coil resistance will tell you a lot about your new game. This takes about one minute and can save you hours of repair and diagnosing work.

Any coil that has locked on (usually due to a short CPU board transistor) will heat up and have a lower total resistance. This happens because the painted enamel insulation on the coil's wire burns, causing the windings to short against each other. This will lower the coil's resistance, causing the coil to get even hotter. Within a minute or so the coil becomes a dead short (less than 2 ohms), and usually blows a fuse.

If the CPU board transistor is repaired, and the game is powered on with a dead-shorted coil, this will blow the same driver transistor(s) again when the coil is fired by the game for the first time! There is no sense making more work for yourself. So take 60 seconds and check all the coils' resistance BEFORE powering the game on for the first time.

In order to check coil resistance, put your DMM on its lowest resistance setting. Then put the DMM's red and black leads on each coil's lugs. A resistance of 2.5 ohms or greater should be seen. Anything less than 2.5 ohms, and the coil and/or driving transistor may be bad. Now remove the wire from one of the lugs of the coil, and test the coil again. If the resistance is still the same (low), the coil or diode is bad (and also perhaps the driving transistor). If the resistance is higher than 2.5 ohms, the coil is good but the solenoid driver board transistor is shorted and will need to be replaced. Lastly, the coil's 1N4004 diode could be shorted too, giving a false low coil resistance. Cut one diode leg from a coil lug and retest the coil's ohms.

Remember when reconnecting the wires to the coil that the power wire (usually two wires or thicker wires) goes to the coil's lug with the BANDED side of the diode attached. The thinner wire is the coil's return path to ground via the driver transistor and attaches to the coil lug with the non-banded side of the diode attached.

If a low resistance coil is found, also suspect the associated CPU board transistor as bad. A low resistance coil is a red flag, a warning, that there may be problems on the CPU board. Actually with System11 games, if a low resistance coil is found, I can pretty much guarantee that you will need to (should) replace of course the coil, but also all the silicon devices in its ground path (TIP driver transistor and probably the pre-driver transistor).

Table of coil resistance used in many DE/Sega/Stern games.

Check every fuse! Seems like such a simple thing, yet many forget to do it. Before ever turning the game on, check the fuses. Not only look for blown fuses, but especially over-fused circuits. For example, is there an 8 amp fuse where there should be a 5 amp? Is there a slo-blow fuse where there should be a fast-blow?

Most of the fuses for these games are located in the backbox. There can be fuses elsewhere however. For example, on games with solidstate flippers, the flipper power fuses are on the solidstate flipper board, mounted under the playfield on the left side of the cabinet.

Fuse locations on Batman Forever. These locations and values may not apply to earlier games.

Fuse Locations.
Although this does not apply to every DataEast/Sega game, here is a run-down of fuses in many late model games.
Backbox Bridges, mounted directly to inside of backbox.
• F1= 8a slo-blo 32 volt (BR2) for +32 volt coils and the flashlamps.
• F2= 8a slo-blo 18 volt (BR1) for switched (CPU controlled) lamps.
• F3= 8a slo-blo 18 volt (BR3) for the score display (only on games with the large 192x64 dot matrix display, Maverick to Batman Forever).

Power Supply Board (in backbox).

• F1= 7a slo-blo for +5 vdc (regulator input 9 vac).
• F2= 7a slo-blo for +5 vdc (regulator input 9 vac).
• F3= Not present on most games.
• F4= 8a slo-blo for 18 vdc switched illumination.
• F5= 4a slo-blo for 32 vdc low-voltage solenoids, bumpers, slingshots.
• F6= 5a slo-blo for 32 vdc for L/R Relay coils and flashers.

Playfield Power Board (aka PPB, in backbox).

• F1= 5a slo-blo GI (general illumination), playfield.
• F2= 5a slo-blo GI (general illumination), backbox/speaker panel.
• F3= 5a slo-blo GI (general illumination), playfield and coin door.
• F4= 5a slo-blo GI (general illumination), backbox.
• F5= 5a slo-blo +50 volt for playfield coils.
• F6= 3a slo-blo +32 volt for flash lamps.
• F7= 3a slo-blo +32 volt for playfield coils/flash lamps Right/Left.
• F8= 4a slo-blo +50 volt playfield coils.
• F9= 5a slo-blo +50 volt playfield laser kicker (outlane return kicker).

Flipper Fuses on the Solid State Flipper Board (aka SSFB, mounted on side of cabinet, under the playfield).

• F1= 3a slo-blo +50 volt for lower right flipper initial power.
• F2= 3a slo-blo +9 volt for hold power.
• F3= 3a slo-blo +50 volt for lower left flipper initial power.
• F4= 3a slo-blo +9 volt for hold power.
• F5= 3a slo-blo +50 volt for upper right flipper (if game is a 3 flipper game).

Main Cabinet Power Fuses (near the coin door).

• 8a slo-blo (domestic).
• 5a slo-blo (international).

Backbox fuses and bridge rectifiers in Baywatch. Since this game has a large 192x64 dot matrix display, it has THREE backbox bridges/fuses and an additional capacitor for the large dot matrix display. Note the top most bridge DB1 on the power supply board (#520-5047-03). This bridge helps smooth the +5 volts logic required for the CPU. The bridge on the right, mounted on the PPB board, rectifies the +50 volts for the coils. The other three bridges and their corresponding fuses are labeled as to their function.

DataEast/Sega Fuse Clips.
DataEast used a less expensive form of fuse holders on their boards. Instead of an actual fuse holder (like Williams used), the fuses are held in place with two metal clips that are soldered to the circuit board. These fuse clips can easily fatique and break. This can cause no connection to the fuse, or intermittent connection. Before ever powering a DataEast/Sega game on, check all the fuse clips. On solid state flipper games (Robocop and later), don't forget to check the flipper board fuse clips too. These use these same cheap fuse clips.

The only way to fix the fuse clips is to replace them. Do not try other "hack" type repairs (usually involving soldering the fuse to the broken fuse clip). Just buy new fuse clips and install them, replacing every questionable fuse holder.

Testing Fuses: the Right Way.
Don't depend on sight or sense of smell to check fuses. A perfectly good looking fuse could be blown. Use a Digital Multi-Meter (DMM). First remove the fuse from its holder, (or remove just one end of the fuse from the holder). Don't try to test the fuse installed as it can give false readings, depending on the circuit. Set the DMM to "continuity", put a lead on each end of the fuse, and buzz out those fuses. No buzz means the fuse is bad.

(Side Note: a "buzz" on the meter means zero resistance. If the DMM doesn't "buzz", either the circuit is OPEN, or the resistance is 100 ohms or greater. If the meter doesn't have a continuity function, just use the lowest resistance setting. A good fuse will measure zero ohms.)

Left: A cracked fuse holder on a power supply fuse. This fuse holder must be replaced for reliable operation. Right: New fuse holder clips.

More Reasons to Pull a Fuse from its Holder to Test.
Always remove a fuse from its holder to test it. A fatigued fuse will often fall apart when taken out of its holder. This may not be seen if the fuse is tested in its holder. A fatigued fuse tests 'good' in the fuse holder, yet the the fuse wire can pull away from an end-cap as it heats up. Removing the fuse will also allow testing the tension of the fuse clip, and identify fatigued fuse clips.

Proper Fuse Clip Tension.
Since each fuse has been removed for testing, is a good time to also test the fuse clip's tension. With the fuse removed, use your fingers, and gently push the fuse clip contacts together slightly. If they feel "soft" or "mushy", replace the fuse clip! There should be some tension; if not, the fuse clip is close to fatiguing and cracking, and should be replaced. On solid state flipper games (Robocop and later), don't forget to check the flipper board fuse clips too. Notice there are two contact points to the circuit board for each fuse clip (top and bottom sides of the board); test continuity from the fuse clips to the board traces on both sides of the board!

A Failed Backbox Lamp Matrix Fuse Makes DMD Games Look Very Broken.
On Checkpoint to Guns N Roses (all games with small 128x16 and mid-sized 128x32 dot matrix displays), there is a unique problem that can make the game look very broken. Random horizontal lines and garbage can be shown on the dot matrix display (but actually the game's CPU has booted correctly and is working OK). On games with the small 128x16 displays, random horizontal lines can appear first, followed by the entire display lighting and staying lit.

If the backbox 18 volt lamp matrix fuse (8 amp slo-blo, with the blue/white wire connecting to the fuse holder) fails, this can cause the dot matrix display to "crash", causing these problems. Another way to identify this problem is the lack of any playfield CPU controlled lighting. The game will "play" (that is, the game will start and play balls), but with score display problems and no CPU controlled lamps. Simply replacing the 18 volt lamp matrix fuse (in the backbox) will fix this problem (providing the associated components such as the bridge and capacitor are OK). If there is a lamp matrix power short, or the lamp matrix backbox bridge is bad, the problem will need to be fixed or the fuse will continue to immediately fail.

This problem occurs because the +12 volts needed for the dot matrix display is generated by the 18 volt lamp matrix bridge and the capacitor/fuse bolted inside the backbox (through connector CN5 on the power supply). The 12 volts generated by the power supply board (for the sound board which comes from connector CN6), does not provide this voltage to the dot matrix display! Hence the power supply could be working perfectly, and this problem could still exist.

A Babcock 128x32 display where the 18 volt lamp matrix backbox fuse has failed. Notice the horizontal "garbage" line across the bottom center of the display. This problem only seems to affect the Babcock brand dot matrix displays.

Interestingly, on 128x32 displays, this problem will only occurs on games with "Babcock" brand dot matrix displays. The 128x32 displays made by Cherry and Dale seem unaffected by a failed 18 volt backbox lamp matrix fuse. This happens because the Babcock displays require 12 volts to function, where Cherry and Dale 128x32 displays do not. This problem can also arise on Cherry brand 128x16 dot matrix displays.

This stange problem was solved with the advent of the 192x64 super-sized dot matrix display (Maverick to Batman Forever). An additional backbox 18 volt fuse (F3), bridge and capacitor were added. This backbox voltage supplied power to a switching power supply, implemented on the 192x64 DMD display driver board. This way if the lamp matrix (F2) fuse failed, the dot matrix display remains unaffected.

Burnt connectors are a major problem on just about all makes and models of electronic pinball games. DataEast/Sega are no exception to this. Burnt connectors can cause small annoying problems (like no general illumination (GI) lights, or big problems like game resets, or the game just won't turn on enough to play.

Square Plug Power Supply Connectors.
Sometimes the square plug power supply connectors get damaged (these connectors were used on Williams power supplies system 3 to system 11b, and on DataEast/Sega power supply until 1995). The twelve pin 3J1 power supply plug handles all the input voltages from the transformer to the power supply, and often gets burned (the six pin rectangle 3J2 power supply plug is a ground connector, and usually does not get damaged). If the 3J1 input plug gets burnt, often the game will not even "boot". (this plug provides the power for the +5 volt logic circuit). As the game is first turned on, the display will come on showing the ROM revision numbers, and speak it's boot-up phrase, but nothing more happens (the display turns on because this is a separate computer, with a separate power plug).

If this 12 pin rectangle plug is burnt, the only answer is to replace it (both the PCB board wafer plug, and the wire mounted plug). Finding the part numbers for these connectors was a real bear, as they were designed in 1971! So here are the part numbers for these wafer style, mixed pin connectors.

• 12 mixed pin PCB wafer connector, Molex part# 09-18-5121.
• 12 mixed pin wire connector, Molex part# 03-09-1126 (or #03-09-1122, but much harder to find).
• 6 mixed pin PCB wafer connector, Molex part# 09-18-5061.
• 6 mixed pin wire connector, Molex part# 03-09-1062.
• Male .093" terminal pins for wire connector, Molex part# 16-06-0002.
• Female .093" terminal pins for wire connector, Molex part# 16-06-0001 (new Molex part# 43080-0001).
Click here for a Molex drawing of these parts.

Burnt GI Connectors.
Often after getting a new game, after turning on the power, the general illumination (GI) lights don't work and the whole game is somewhat dark. This can be caused because connectors burned.

The GI connectors can get hot and fail. This happens because the molex connectors don't always have enough surface area to handle the GI power requirements. The heat from the connector will cause the solder joints to fatigue which causes resistance (and more heat). The connector pins get so hot they soften the solder. All this causes more resistance, which causes more heat. It doesn't end until the board burns, the fuse heat fatigues and fails, or the connectors pins fall out (or burn!), and open the circuit.

A burnt .156" GI connector on the DataEast power supply. The GI connector got so hot, one male molex pin unsoldered itself from the board! Note the GI relay behind the connector.

The Flow of the GI Power (GI Failure).
DataEast's design for the electrical flow of the general illumination power leads to lots of potential problem areas.

• GI Power comes from the transformer with four yellow wires.
• GI power goes to a four pin Molex connector, about 10 inches from the transformer.
• GI Power goes to the power supply board through an input molex plug.
• GI power goes to a relay on the power supply board. This relay can be activated to turn on and off the GI.
• GI power leaves the power supply board through an output molex plug.
• GI Power goes into the PPB board through an input molex plug.
• GI Power goes through a fuse (and potentially cracked fuse holders!)
• GI Power leaves the PPB board through an output molex plug, and goes to the backbox or playfield.

Notice all the molex plugs in the above power flow! Each molex plug is a potential problem in the GI power flow, and can (and does) easily burn. Add to this cold solder joints on the GI relay, and bad/cracked fuse holders on the PPB board (see the section above about fatiqued fuse holders), and that is a formula for general illumination failure.

A burnt connector coming out of the transformer for the G.I. circuit on "Hook".

Burnt Transformer Plug.
If having general illumination problems, and none of the connectors are burnt on the boards, there is one more plug that needs to be checked. This is the plug that connects the transformer to the GI circuit, in the bottom of the cabinet, before the power gets to the backbox. It uses a different type of Molex plug, with round pins. This plug doesn't burn nearly as often as the plugs on the boards, but it does happen. Look for the plug that connects the yellow wires to the transformer. This plug uses four Molex .093" round pins. The female pins are Molex part number 02-09-1119 (http://www.molex.com/product/power/236ftmt.gif). The male pins are Molex part number 02-09-2118.

Fixing a Burnt Connector.
Fixing a burnt connector requires more than just replacing the connector! The board will also need to be removed and the male header pins replaced. Sanding the pins clean and tinning them with solder is a very short term solution, and should not be done! Since the original plating is burned off the pins, they will re-tarnish quickly, and the problem will soon re-occur. If the connector only is replaced, and not the board header pins (or minimally cleaned and tinned), the resistance will still be there (from the cold or fatigued solder joints and dirty pins). The new connector will burn in short order. Note nearly all of the GI connectors in a DataEast/Sega game are the .156" variety.

A crimping tool (top), two different types of .156" pins (bottom left), a new .156" connector housing and male pins. Note the connector pins; the far left two pins are the crimp-on, single wiper type. The two pins to the right are insulation displacement pins, but with two wipers. It's ideal to use the crimp-on style pin, but with two wipers (not shown).

Crimp-On Pin Connectors vs. Insulation Displacement Connectors (IDC) Plugs.
Insulation displacement connector (IDC) plugs are very convenient for an assembly line or automated procedure to install. No wire stripping is needed, the wire is just pushed onto the "V" in the pin, which cuts (displaces) the insulation to make contact with the wire. But they aren't very good in the long run. Many problems with games are attributed to these IDC plugs. A far better connector uses the crimp-on style of pin. A special tool is needed to crimp them, but the reliability will be much higher. Only use crimp-on pin connectors when replacing burnt ones. Help with crimping connectors and lots of other connector info can be found at marvin3m.com/connect. Hand crimping tools include Molex WHT-1921 (part# 11-01-0015), Molex part# 63811-1000, Amp 725, or Radio Shack #64-410 (Radio Shack version is not recommended).

Connector Pins (Trifurcon type).
Molex makes a crimp-on .156" size female terminal pin called a "trifurcon" pin (not available in the .100" pin size). This style .156" pin differs from the "normal" pin; it has three wiper contacts instead of just one. The more contact points means the female pin "hugs" the male header pin with greater surface area. These are highly recommended. The specs for these pins can be viewed at http://www.molex.com/product/pcb/6838.html. Compares these to the "normal" connector pin specs at http://www.molex.com/product/pcb/2478.html.

Note Molex sells these pins in "strips" or on a "reel". Do NOT buy connector pins this way! Always buy them in "bags" (separated). It's just too difficult to cut them when they are in strips (sharp scissors do work pretty good for cutting them though). If a good job cutting them is not done, the pins will not insert into their plastic housing correctly. Also always get the tin plated version, NOT the gold plated pins.

• .156" Trifurcon pins (three wipers): Molex part# 08-52-0113 (tin plated phosphor bronze) or 08-50-0189 (tin plated brass), for 18 to 20 guage wire. Digikey part# WM2313-ND. Mouser and Competitive Products (#06-2186) also sells these.
• .156" tin pins (one wiper, not suggested): Molex part# 08-50-0106, for 18 to 20 guage wire. Mouser sells these.
• .100" pins: Molex part# 08-50-0114. Digikey part# WM2200-N, and Mouser sells these.

Board Mounted Header Pins.
These are available in several styles. Get the most number of pins available, and cut the header to the size needed. They also come with a "lock" and without a lock. The lock variety is what will be used the most. Mouser sell these.

• .156" header pins with lock (12 pins), part# 26-48-1125.
• .156" header pins with no lock (12 pins), part# 26-48-1121.
• .100" header pins with lock (12 pins), part# 22-23-2121.
• .100" header pins with no lock (12 pins), part# 22-03-2121.

Connector Housings.
Sometimes the plastic connector housing will need to be replaced too if it is burnt, in addition to the pins within the housing. Get the most number of pins available, and cut the connector to the size needed. Remember though, the connector housing does not influnce how well the connectors actually work.

• .156" black hi-temp housing: Williams part #5792-13384-xx. The "xx" is the number of pins for the housing from "02" to "18". Pinball Resource sell these.
• .156" white housings (12 pins), part# 09-50-3121: Mouser.
• .100" white housings (12 pins), part# 22-01-3127: Mouser.

Polarized Pegs.
A polarized peg is a small nylon plug that go into the connector housing so the housing is "keyed" (plugging it into the wrong board header pin connector is impossible). It is highly recommended to use these when replacing a connector housing. Mouser sells these.

• .156" polarized peg, part# 15-04-0220.
• .100" polarized peg, part# 15-04-9210.

Round Molex Pins.
Used on the transformer plugs. A special Molex tool is needed to extract the old pins.

• .093" round pins, female, Molex part number 02-09-1119.
• .093" round pins, male, Molex part number 02-09-2118.
• .093" round pin extractor, Molex part number 11-03-0006, or Waldom/Molex part number WHT-2038, or Radio Shacks part number 274-223 (the Radio Shack tool is pretty good).

Burnt GI on Time Machine and Before: Service Bullentin.
DataEast's service bulletin number 16 suggests a burnt GI circuit on power supply boards used in games Time Machine and before. They say the GI board traces are not heavy enough to carry the current needed. To prevent a burnt GI section, they suggest the following modifications (these modifications were included on games Playboy and later). Please see the service bulletin by clicking here and here.

GI Over Voltage on Newer DE/Sega/Stern Games.
A common problem on newer DE/Sega/Stern games is over-voltage from the transformer for the GI circuit. The voltage should be no more than 6.4 volts AC, but is often as high as 7.25 volts AC. Though this makes for very bright GI lamps, bulbs don't last very long (some operators report bulbs only lasting one month!)

If the GI circuit is run at a lower voltage (like 5.5 to 6.0 volts AC), bulb life goes up dramatically (as much as 10x). To increase bulb life (and decrease heat), the GI voltage from the transformer needs to be reduce. An old trick that Gottlieb did during the 1970s was to use a second GI transformer tap, supplying 5.5 volts AC to the coin door lights only (the rest of the GI for the game got 6.4 volts AC). This ensured that the coin door lights lasted nearly forever.

In order to decrease the transformer GI voltage, a bridge rectifier can be used to lower the voltage. This is an old trick that Williams used, and it works really well to lower the voltage by about 1/2 volt. Basically one side of the GI circuit (either the feed or the return) is tied to a bridge rectifier's "+" and "AC" lugs. Then the "+" lug is tied to the "-" lug, and the two "AC" bridge lugs are tied together. This does not rectifier the AC voltage, but does decrease voltage by about 1/2 volt. A heat sink should be used on the bridge too because the bridge can get warm. No additional fuses are required. If the bridge does short internally, the only effect is there's no effect (the AC voltage is no longer decreased by a 1/2 volt).

Using a bridge rectifier to decrease the GI voltage. This will dramatically increase bulb life. Here the yellow/white GI wires from the transformer are fed to the modified bridge rectifier "+" and "AC" lugs. Then a jumper wire goes from the "+" to the "-" lug, and the two "AC" lugs are jumped.

Here the bridge is screwed down with a heat sink to help keep it cool.

Before ever turning on a new DataEast/Sega game, test all the TIP122/102 solenoid transistors. Do this while in the backbox (examining the fuses and the GI connectors). A blown transistor can really confuse a game. This is the procedure to use, and it only takes about 60 seconds to test all the TIP122/102 transistors:
• Make sure the game is off.
• Put the DMM (digital multi meter) on ohms (buzz tone).
• Put one lead on the ground strap in the backbox.
• Touch the other lead to the metal tab on the TIP122/102 transistors.
• If zero ohms (buzz) is shown, the transistor is bad! (shorted on).

There are a number of TIP122/102 transistors on the DataEast/Sega CPU board:

• Q8-Q13: located at the upper right (special coil transistors).
• Q23-Q30: located at the lower left (constant power transistors).
• Q39-Q46: located at the lower left (multiplexed transistors).
• Q72-Q79: located at the lower right (lamp matrix return rows).

Replace the bad TIP122 transistor(s) with a more robust TIP102 immediately before turning the game on. Replace the associated pre-driver 2N4401 transistor too.

Relays.
All DataEast/Sega games have a minimum of three relays in the backbox. These relays are a source of common problems on these games. Most common is cold solder joints where the relay is soldered to the circuit board. The relays themselves can also fail however. These relays really aren't repairable; just replace them. Often the contacts on the relay switches will burn together so the relay cannot do its job.

Backbox circuit board relays and their functions:

• PPB/MRB board relay K1: this relay controls the solenoid L/R select circuit, and is controlled by CPU transistor Q29 (TIP122). It is extremely common for this relay to have cold solder joints! If the L/R (or A/B) select coils or flashlamps do not work, this relay should be checked. This relay is a 24 vdc 10 amp relay with two DPDT switches. There are a total of 8 solder points on this relay; two connect to the winding of the relay coil (to turn the relay on and off). The other six contacts (two distinct sets of three contact DPDT switches) are the relay switches. Source number FRL264 P024/02CK, Sega part 190-5002-00.
• Power Supply board relay RY1: this relay controls the GI (General Illumination), and is controlled by CPU transistor Q28 (TIP122). It is very common for this relay to have cold solder joints, or to have relay switch contacts that are melted together. This relay is a 24 vdc 10 amp relay with two DPDT switches. There are a total of 8 solder points on this relay; two connect to the winding of the relay coil (to turn the relay on and off). The other six contacts (two distinct sets of three contact DPDT switches) are the relay switches. Source number FRL264 P024/02CK, Sega part 190-5003-00.
• CPU board relay RY1: this relay controls the flippers (turns the flippers on when a game is started), and is controlled by CPU transistor Q80 (2N4401). The flipper relay is the most reliable of the three, and does not fail often. This relay is a 6 vdc, 5 amp, 4 pole relay with four SPST switches. These switches are wired into 2 pairs (this is done because there can be up to 2 pairs of flippers). There are a total of 10 solder points on this relay; two connect to the winding of the relay coil (to turn the relay on and off). The other eight are for the switches. Sega part number 190-5001-00

Replace Relays with the RIGHT Relay!
All of the replays used in DataEast/Sega games have at least two sets of contacts. If a relay is mistakenly replaced with (for example) a single set of DPDT contacts, it could short the power supply and start it on fire! (I have seen this happen.)

Wrong PPB Relay installed on some TftC Games.
During production of Tales from the Crypt, the wrong PPB L/R select relay at K-1 was installed. This can cause solenoids to activate randomly, and flash lamps to not activate at all. The problem was the PPB's K-1 relay was installed with a 24 volt AC relay, instead of a 24 volt DC relay. The incorrect AC relay had a relay coil winding of about 2 ohms, where the correct DC version was about 650 ohms! The lack of ohms will cause the relay to burn and fail. The relay can be identified easily because it is labeled "24v AC", where the correct relay is labeled "24v DC", or the relay's winding can be measured with a DMM. Games with serial number 101664 or later have been inspected for this problem. If a 24 volt AC relay is discovered, replace it with the correct 24 volt DC relay. This was mentioned in service bulletin number 52.

Playfield Device Driver Boards.
Many DataEast/Sega games use various playfield devices. This includes items such as playfield magnets (used on Guns N Roses for example) or motors. Most of these devices are controlled by an under-the-playfield driver board. The driver boards for these playfield devices are very prone to cold solder joints, causing the device to not work, or work intermittently. This happens because the playfield vibrates from the pinball itself, and from the (energizing) coils attached to the playfield. These vibrations can easily cause solder joints on the playfield mounted boards to crack. It does not matter if this board is a relay board, or a newer FET driver transistor board. Both types are very prone to fatiqued (cracked) solder joints.

FET Playfield Driver Boards.
Starting with Guns N Roses, DataEast starting using FET (Field Effect Transistor) driver transistors on some under-the-playfield device driver boards. The advantage to this system was simple; the FET transistors could be "logic driven". This means a 74LS373 TTL (Transistor to Transistor Logic) chip (as commonly used on the CPU board) could directly drive a FET transistor. There is no need for the 74LS373 chip to drive a small 2N4401 transistor, which drove a larger TIP102 transistor, which finally drove an even larger TIP36c transistor (and ultimately the playfield device). The FET transistors meant less components to fail and test, meaning better reliability.

There were some problems with these FET under-the-playfield boards. On Guns N Roses (the first FET application for DataEast), the game used three playfield magnets to alter the trajectory of the steel pinball. The three magnets were activated by an under-the-playfield board with three FET driver transistors. The FETs had large heatsinks, and were mounted upside down (under the playfield). Often the solder joints on the FETs would crack, causing the magnets to fail or lock-on. Resoldering the fatiqued solder joints fixes this problem.

There was another problem with the first generation of FET boards. Instead of the FET driver board being in the backbox close to the CPU board, long wires connecting the CPU data lines to the under-the-playfield FET board were used. This meant any extraneous playfield noise (from the playfield lamps, for example) could cause "interference" on the data lines going to the FET board. On Guns N Roses, this could cause the playfield magnets to lock on, for no apparent reason.

There are two solutions to this problem. First, the under-the-playfield FET driver board can be moved to the backbox, and the wires going from the FET board to the CPU board shortened. Then the wires going from the FET board to the playfield device lengthened. This solves the CPU data line noise problem by making the data wires much shorter. The second solution is to use .1 mfd capacitors between the FET board's pull-up resistors and ground to "de-spike" the interference. This solution does not remove the data line noise, but just supresses it at the under-the-playfield FET board. This solution is easier to implement, but it may not totally cure the problem.

A common fault with DataEast power supplies is no or low +5 volts. Of course without a good +5 volt power supply the game is not going to work!

The +5 volt power supply section is not complicated. Most of the time it's bad (.156" molex) connectors on the power supply board. Aside from that, remember +12 volts D.C. comes from the back box mounted bridge rectifier. Remember this bridge can go open or short, causing low +5 volts or a blown fuse, respectively. If good +12 volts is coming from the backbox mounted bridge rectifier, next check the 2N6057 transistor (replace with a 2N6059). If this does fail or leak, a low +5 volts will be seen. Past that there is a MC1723CP voltage regulator chip too, but this rarely fails.

If all these things check out Ok, now check the electrolytic capacitors on the power supply board. These can leak, and corrode the traces on the power supply board underneath them. This is a more common problem then it may seem!

Low-Power Solenoid Voltage Varistor Z1.
On the DE schematics for the power supply, the 25 vac low-power solenoid line comes from a backbox mounted bridge to the power supply board at connector C1 pin 2 (as about 32 volts DC from the bridge rectifier). It goes thru Z1 on the power supply board, which is shown on the schematics as a "Diac". But it's not a Diac, it's a MOV (Varistor). The MOV will short if more than about 50 volts goes thru this line. This component rarely fails (when it does it usually blows up good), but I thought I should mention it since the schematics are confusing. Note sometimes C8 fails (150 mfd 100v) causing the solenoid voltage to drop from 32 vdc to less than 5 volts.

This is a very common question. After all, arcades leave their games on almost continually with minimal damage (that we know of!). So why not do it with home games?

Although commercial pinball machines can handle being powered on continually, Do not leave homes games turned on when not in use. Here are several reasons:

• Electronic score displays (dot matrix displays and others) on games have a limited life, which is proportional to how much time they have been turned on.
• General illumination circuits will be stressed. Burnt pins and connectors are very common on games that are on for extended periods of time.
• Light bulbs don't last forever, and aren't all that easy to change on a playfield.
• The bulbs, displays, fans, and transformers only attract dirt when on. Leaving the game on means sucking dirt out of the air and depositing it into the machine.
• Heat generated by the general illumination lamps can warp playfield plastics or help delaminate backglass paint.
• Electricity is a precious resource. Conserve it!

Leaving a pinball on all the time can cost much more than any potential damage that could be done turning it off and on as needed.

End of DataEast Repair document Part One.