These are the connector pinouts for System80 CPU boards. This information was taken from the Haunted House manual, but should apply to most other System80 games.

Note: "A1" is the designation for the CPU board. Double sided connectors (A1J4 in this case) use numbers for the pins on the front (component) side of the board, and letters for the pins on the back (solder) side of the board. Some letters are not used because they look too much like numbers. These include: G, I, O, Q. If more than 22 pins are used, a "bar" is designated over the repeated letters. For example, pin 23 (where pin 22 = Z) on the back side of the board would be designated as "/A".

System80 CPU Board Connector Pinouts
Connector	Description
A1J1-1 A1J1-2 A1J1-3 A1J1-4 A1J1-5	+5 volts from Power Supply for CPU board main power +5 volts from Power Supply for CPU board main power not used Ground from Power Supply for CPU board main power Ground from Power Supply for CPU board main power
A1J2-1 A1J2-2 A1J2-3 A1J2-4 A1J2-5 A1J2-6 A1J2-7 A1J2-8 A1J2-9 A1J2-10 A1J2-11 A1J2-12 A1J2-13 A1J2-14 A1J2-15 A1J2-16 A1J2-17 A1J2-18 A1J2-19 A1J2-20 A1J2-21 A1J2-22 A1J2-23 A1J2-24	Display 1,2 segment a Display 1,2 segment b Display 1,2 segment c Display 1,2 segment d Display 1,2 segment e Display 1,2 segment f Display 1,2 segment g Display 1,2 segment h Display 3,4 segment a Display 3,4 segment b Display 3,4 segment c Display 3,4 segment d Display 3,4 segment e Display 3,4 segment f Display 3,4 segment g Display 3,4 segment h Display Status/Bonus segment a Display Status/Bonus segment b Display Status/Bonus segment c Display Status/Bonus segment d Display Status/Bonus segment e Display Status/Bonus segment f Display Status/Bonus segment g Display Status/Bonus segment h
A1J3-1 A1J3-2 A1J3-3 A1J3-4 A1J3-5 A1J3-6 A1J3-7 A1J3-8 A1J3-9 A1J3-10 A1J3-11 A1J3-12 A1J3-13 A1J3-14 A1J3-15 A1J3-16	Display 1, 3, Bonus digit D1 Display 1, 3, Bonus digit D2 Display 1, 3, Bonus digit D3 Display 1, 3, Bonus digit D4 Display 1, 3, Bonus digit D5 Display 1, 3, Bonus digit D6 Display 2, 4 digit D7 Display 2, 4 digit D8 Display 2, 4 digit D9 Display 2, 4 digit D10 Display 2, 4 digit D11 Display 2, 4 digit D12 Display Status digit D13 Display Status digit D14 Display Status digit D15 Display Status digit D16
A1J4-1 A1J4-2 A1J4-3 A1J4-4 A1J4-5 A1J4-6 A1J4-7 A1J4-8 A1J4-9 A1J4-10 A1J4-11 A1J4-12 A1J4-13 A1J4-14 A1J4-15 A1J4-16 A1J4-17 A1J4-18 A1J4-19 A1J4-20 A1J4-21 A1J4-22 A1J4-23 A1J4-24	Ground to Driver Board +5 volts to Driver Board Lamp Latch Strobe DS2 Lamp Control LD3 Lamp Control LD4 Lamp Control LD2 Lamp Control LD1 not used not used not used not used not used not used not used   not used not used Key not used not used Solenoid Control 8 Solenoid Control 7 Solenoid Control 4 Solenoid Control 3		A1J4-A A1J4-B A1J4-C A1J4-D A1J4-E A1J4-F A1J4-H A1J4-J A1J4-K A1J4-L A1J4-M A1J4-N A1J4-P A1J4-R A1J4-S A1J4-T A1J4-U A1J4-V A1J4-W A1J4-X A1J4-Y A1J4-Z A1J4-/A A1J4-/B	Ground to Driver Board +5 volts to Driver Board Lamp Latch Strobe DS1 Lamp Latch Strobe DS4 Lamp Latch Strobe DS3 Lamp Latch Strobe DS6 Lamp Latch Strobe DS5 Lamp Latch Strobe DS8 Lamp Latch Strobe DS7 Lamp Latch Strobe DS10 Lamp Latch Strobe DS9 Lamp Latch Strobe DS11 Lamp Latch Strobe DS12 Solenoid Control 5 Solenoid Control 1 Solenoid Control 9 Solenoid Control 6 Key not used Solenoid 2 Sound Control S8 Sound Control S4 Sound Control S2 Sound Control S1
A1J5-1 A1J5-2 A1J5-3 A1J5-4 A1J5-5 A1J5-6 A1J5-7 A1J5-8 A1J5-9 A1J5-10	Switch Matrix Return 7 (coin door switches) Switch Matrix Strobe 0 (coin door Test) Switch Matrix Strobe 1 (coin door Left coin) Switch Matrix Strobe 2 (coin door Right coin) Switch Matrix Strobe 3 (coin door Center coin) Switch Matrix Strobe 4 (coin door Replay/Start) Switch Matrix Strobe 5 (Plumb Bob/Ball Roll Tilt) Not used Switch Matrix Strobe 7 (usually not used) Slam Switch
A1J6-1 A1J6-2 A1J6-3 A1J6-4 A1J6-5 A1J6-6 A1J6-7 A1J6-8 A1J6-9 A1J6-10 A1J6-11 A1J6-12 A1J6-13 A1J6-14 A1J6-15 A1J6-16 A1J6-17 A1J6-18	Switch Matrix Strobe 0 Switch Matrix Strobe 1 Switch Matrix Strobe 2 Switch Matrix Strobe 3 Switch Matrix Strobe 4 Switch Matrix Strobe 5 Switch Matrix Strobe 6 Switch Matrix Strobe 7 Ground for Pop Bumper Driver Board Switch Matrix Return 0 Switch Matrix Return 1 Switch Matrix Return 2 Switch Matrix Return 3 Switch Matrix Return 4 Switch Matrix Return 5 Switch Matrix Return 6 Switch Matrix Return 7 +5 volts for Pop Bumper Driver Board

The following are the Dip switch settings for Haunted House and Black Hole. These will also apply to many other System 80 games, but there may be some differences. There are major differences for System 80a and 80b games, which are not reflected here.

There are 32 switches on the CPU board which are contained in four packages of eight switches each. From left to right (as facing the CPU board), the order is: S1-S8, S9-S16, S17-S24, S25-S32. Switch settings are recongnized only during power-up and when starting the first player of a new game.

Haunted House/Black Hole Sound Board System 80 Dip Switch Settings (doesn't apply to earlier sound boards)
S1 S2	On On	Used in self test only Not used
S3 Off On Off On	S4 Off Off On On	Attract Mode Disabled Every 10 seconds Every 2 minutes Every 4 minutes
S5   S6 S7 S8	On Off On On On	Background sound enabled Background sound disabled Not used Not used Not used

The following is the System 80 bookkeeping and self test list. Note this is for System 80 only, as more bookkeeping audits were added for System 80a.

Press Self Test button: credit display should read "00". Press start button to go to test step 16 (diagonstics), or press self test button again to go to audit #1.

1. Coins thru left chute
2. Coins thru right chute
3. Coins thru center chute
4. Total plays
5. Total replays
6. Game percentage
7. Extra ball
8. Total tilts
9. Total slams
10. Times HGTD has been beaten
11. First high score level
12. Second high score level
13. Third high score level
14. High game to date score
15. Average playing time
    

    (end of audits, start of diagnostics)

16. Lamp driver test: general relays and coin lockouts pulsed. All controlled lamps turned on. If any lamp driver transistors are used to turn on coils (via an under the playfield transistor), these coils will also activate.
17. Solenoid test: the six driver board controlled solenoids are pulsed. Solenoids 1,2,5,6,8,9 are tested, solenoids 3,4,7 are skipped (because these are for the mechanical coin counters).
18. Switch test: if all switches are open, "99" will appear in the credit/status display. If one or more are closed, their matrix number will appear in the display. Activate each individual playfield switch by hand, and see if it registers during this test.
19. Display test: each digit of each display is turned on sequentially.
20. Memory test: each board memory device is inspected. Any defective device is indicated by part number in player #1 display. If all RAM and ROMs are Ok, "99" is shown in credit display. On system80a there are some other codes to indicate health/problems. The #2 player score display will show the game EPROM check sum and the credit/player #3,4 displays will show:
    • 99 = all memory good
    • 5101 = bad Z5 5101 RAM
    • 2332-1 = bad U2 game rule PROM
    • 2332-2 = bad U3 game rule PROM
    • 6532-1 = bad U4 RIOT chip
    • 6532-2 = bad U5 RIOT chip
    • 6532-3 = bad U6 RIOT chip
    • 2716 = bad Game EPROM

To exit self test, wait 60 seconds or open and close the slam switch, or close the tilt switch.

The 2764 EPROM and socket modified.

8. Plug the modified EPROM/socket combination into yet another socket. This way if you were sloppy on your soldering, the CPU board's socket will not be damaged.
9. Plug the modified EPROM/socket combination into the CPU board socket U3.
10. Using wire wrap, run a jumper from EPROM pin 20 to EPROM pin 22 (these pins were bent up), and then continue this jumper to the CPU board chip Z10 pin 5 on the component side of the CPU board. This inverts the EPROM's /OE signal.

The 2764 EPROM with modified socket at U3.

The 2764 EPROM with modified socket at U3 and jumper wire to Z10 on the CPU board.

To make this conversion more understandable and how the 2764 "hangs over" the old 2332 pin socket, here is the pinout for the 28 pin 2764 EPROM and the original 24 pin 2332 ROM.

2764     2332 Pin 1 Vpp       Pin 2 A12       Pin 3 A7     Pin 1 A7 Pin 4 A6     Pin 2 A6 Pin 5 A5     Pin 3 A5 Pin 6 A4     Pin 4 A4 Pin 7 A3     Pin 5 A3 Pin 8 A2     Pin 6 A2 Pin 9 A1     Pin 7 A1 Pin 10 A0     Pin 8 A0 Pin 11 D0     Pin 9 D0 Pin 12 D1     Pin 10 D1 Pin 13 D2     Pin 11 D2 Pin 14 Gnd     Pin 12 Gnd

2332     2764       Vcc Pin 28       /Pgm Pin 27 Vcc Pin 24     N.C. Pin 26 A8 Pin 23     A8 Pin 25 A9 Pin 22     A9 Pin 24 CS2 Pin 21     A11 Pin 23* CS1 Pin 20     /OE Pin 22* A10 Pin 19     A10 Pin 21 A11 Pin 18     /OE Pin 20* D7 Pin 17     D7 Pin 19 D6 Pin 16     D6 Pin 18 D5 Pin 15     D5 Pin 17 D4 Pin 14     D4 Pin 16 D3 Pin 13     D3 Pin 15

* Pins on the 2764 EPROM that do not match up directly with pins on the 2332, and must be re-routed with wire wrap.

Replacing U2/U3 with 2532 EPROMs on a System80 CPU board.
Alternatively, 2532 EPROMs can be used at U2 and U3. The pinout for the stock 2332 ROM and a 2532 EPROM are nearly identical. Only pins 20, 21 need some manipulation. An unmodified Gottlieb System 80 or 80A CPU requires that pins 20 and 21 of U2/U3 2332s to be a logical high or "1" to access the ROM data. Modifying the CPU board to use the TMS2532 requires that both signals be combined together and inverted due to the fact that the TMS2532 uses essentially only one pin to achieve the same effect, and this signal must be an active low to access the data. Additionally, the pin assignments for the chip select and output enable on the TMS2532 are different than the 2332 masked ROM pin assignments, and some traces on the component side of the board must be cut and jumpered. A word of caution here: those folks who have the early version of the Gottlieb System 80 CPU (DET PB03-D102, with two game 512 byte PROMs instead of a single 2716 game EPROM) should perform the conversion to use the 2716 first. To modify the CPU board, several traces must be cut.

2532 2332 Pin 1 A7 A7 Pin 2 A6 A6 Pin 3 A5 A5 Pin 4 A4 A4 Pin 5 A3 A3 Pin 6 A2 A2 Pin 7 A1 A1 Pin 8 A0 A0 Pin 9 D0 D0 Pin 10 D1 D1 Pin 11 D2 D2 Pin 12 Gnd Gnd

2332 2532   Vcc Vcc Pin 24 A8 A8 Pin 23 A9 A9 Pin 22 CS2 Vpp Pin 21 CS1 /E Pin 20 A10 A10 Pin 19 A11 A11 Pin 18 D7 D7 Pin 17 D6 D6 Pin 16 D5 D5 Pin 15 D4 D4 Pin 14 D3 D3 Pin 13

Originally I was going to post the method to using 2532s for U2 and U3. But after reviewing the steps required to do it, I have decided to not post the information. Here's my opinion and advice: use the 2764 EPROM modification instead! Modifying the system80 CPU board for 2532 EPROMs is much more work than using the single 2764 technique. So save yourself some trouble and go that route. But if you are just dying to use 2532 EPROMs, here's a 2532 U2/U3 Word Document (4.8meg) that describes the procedure (note it was not written by me).

As a comparison, here's a System80 CPU board converted to 2532 EPROMs.

The original system80 CPU board, DET. PB03-D102-001, was only used on the first five System80 games (Spiderman, Panthera, Circus, Counterforce, James Bond). It uses two smaller 512 byte PROM chips (PROM1 and PROM2) for the game personality code, instead of the later CPU board versions which used a single 2716 EPROM at location PROM1 (and no ROM at PROM2). This board must be modified if a 2716 EPROM is used at PROM1 for the game ROM.

James Bond (10/80) and newer System 80 CPU boards, DET. PB03-D107-001, were factory modified to use one (2048 byte) 2716 program chip. This doubled the amount of game ROM space over the previous two (512 byte) 7641 program PROM chips. In James Bond and newer games, some old CPU boards were re-wired to use the bigger program ROM. This is easy to identify as there are 4 jumper wires on the solder side of the board. The below procedure describes this.

An pre-James Bond system80 CPU board with masked ROMs at PROM1 and PROM2.

A post-James Bond system80 CPU board with a single 2716 EPROM at PROM1.

A third CPU board DET. PB03-D107-003 was introduced. This is the same as DET. PB03-D107-001, except they changed the placement of a ground trace to accommodate a ground screw (which Gottlieb never used, but we used for the Ground Modification described earlier in this document).

A fouth CPU board "D20869" was introduced with system80a, and used for system80b also. This board is the same as the D107 also, but it has socketed U2/U3 chips. Also the PROM2 game ROM socket was removed. With system80B, this board was used by some chips for the displays were removed and replaced with jumpers.

Update Procedure to Change from D102 to D107 Revision:

• On the componet side of the board, cut the trace extending from the left between pins 6 and 7 of Z10.
• On the solder side, jump Z10 pin 13 to the pad located just below and to the right of Z9 pin 7.
• On the solder side, cut the traces leading to PROM socket 1, pins 19 and 21.
• On the solder side, jump PROM socket 1, pin 21 to PROM socket 2, pin 24.
• On the solder side, jump PROM socket 1, pin 22 to PROM socket 2, pin 18.
• On the solder side, jump PROM socket 1, pin 19 to PROM socket 2, pin 21.
• ROMs at locations U2 and U3 need changing. These are the "game rules" ROMs, and are unique to the System 80 board generation. For example, System 80a had different rule ROMs than System 80b.

Note in the self-test step 20, if the program ROM is bad the display will still show chip 7641 as the bad chip instead of 2716.

System 80, 80A, 80B CPU Board Interchangability.
Unfortunately, a system80A CPU board can not be used (without modification) in a system80 game. Same thing with system80B CPU board; it can only be used in a system80B game.

This has to do with the U2/U3 game "rules" ROMs. To use a system80A CPU in a system80 game, the U2 and U3 ROMs must be changed. This is not really an easy feat, as these are 9332 masked ROMs. In order to change them to 2732 or 2532 EPROMs, some board modifications would be required. Also these ROMs are not in sockets on the CPU board. See the U2/U3 update section for more details on this.

System80B CPU boards can not be used in any prior games without modification. The U2/U3 "rules" ROMs are now gone (this ROM code is moved into the game's EPROMs). Also the display TTL chips are changed to accomodate the alpha-numeric displays used in system80B games.

More information on this can be found at http://www.geocities.com/kirbseepe/repairCPU.html.

Gottlieb made a Reset board that was added to all games starting with System 80a (Devil's Dare and later). This board prevented game damage when the CPU stopped running and left some things "turned on". Without the reset board, early System 80 games (Haunted House and before) would sometimes lock on and burn out parts like display tubes, coils, driver transistors, and even burn circuit boards.

The CPU could stop running for a variety of reasons; static electricity, line voltage dip, a defective coil diode (allowing coil voltage spikes back to the driver board and CPU), bad 5 volt power supply, ground level disparities (hence the reason the ground mods are important), etc.

For home use, this isn't a big problem as most people only leave their games on while they play them. If the game locks up, they are there to turn it off, wait a moment, and turn it back on. But this was a big problem on operated games that were left on for many hours, every day, unattended.

To fix this problem, Gottlieb made a Reset board mounted directly above the CPU board. This board connected to the CPU board via a 40 pin socket. This socket is on all System 80 CPU boards. On Haunted House and prior, this socket is empty (since the board is not installed).

To install the reset board, just plug it into the empty 40 pin socket on the top of the CPU board. Also attach a jumper from the reset board to the CPU board, so the reset board can monitor the displays.

When the reset board is installed, it automatically resets the game if a lock-up occurs. The reset board detects the absence of the IRQ signal and/or the display digit strobe. If either is missing, the reset board generates a pulse which resets the 6502.

If the above changes were made to the Driver board that fix the grounding problems, the Reset board is less of an issue. It is additional security, but is probably not necessary.

Different Reset Board Generations.
Reset boards prior to Ice Fever (5/83) need to be modified to add a resistor and a diode to prevent RAM (Z5) failures. The resistor and diode are added to the connector that plugs into the CPU board. A 3K 1/4 watt resistor is added between pins 7 and 11 of the 40 pin plug. A 1N4001 diode is added between pins 17 and 24 of the 40 pin plug, with the banded end connected to pin 24.

Reset Board Causing CPU to Lockup.
Gottlieb implemented the Reset board to prevent system80 games from locking up and bring things. So it's a bit ironic that the Reset board can also cause the CPU board to not boot and run! In the case of a game that just won't boot, try disconnecting the Reset board and see if things change. If the game boots with the Reset board disconnected (this is fairly common), then you have obviously found a problem.

The problem with the Reset board is this: the electrolytic capacitors on the Reset board dry up. This in turn makes the Reset board's CPU monitoring interval gets shorter and shorter. This in turn makes the Reset board continually force the CPU board to reset continually due to the bad Reset board.

So what is the solution? Well you can keep the Reset board disconnected. But a better idea is to just replace the electrolytic caps on the Reset board.

• C1 = 47 mfd at 10 volts
• C2 = 4.7 mfd at 10 volts
• C3 = 470 mfd at 16 volts
• C4 = 470 mfd at 16 volts

The blue Futaba score displays are unique to Gottlieb games. They use a lower voltage than the gas-plasma displays on Williams/Bally games (60 volts versus 190 volts). Because of this, the Futaba displays can last nearly forever, and problems with the displays are not quite as common as other games.

Here's some repair tips on dealing with Gottlieb Futaba displays:

• Do not change or swap displays with the power on! It's almost a guarentee that chips Z19,Z21,Z23 (7448) and/or Z17,Z24,Z26 (7404) will fail on the CPU board.
• Beware of the glass nipple on the back of the displays. It is very fragile, and can break easily (ruining the display). Some people put rubber tubing over the nipple when working on a display so it won't break.
• Most System 80 games have five or six displays: four for player scores, one for bonus score, and one for credit/ball in play. If half of the displays have a particular problem (such as missing a segment), than the CPU board is probably at fault. If only one display has a problem, then usually the display itself is at fault.
• When there is a problem with two (or more) displays, often the problem is the chips closest to the connectors on the CPU board. This would be Z19,Z21,Z23 (7448) or Z17,Z24,Z26 (7404).

• If there is a Digit proble on two or more of the displays, check these chips. These chips all go to connector J3. If all displays are missing a digit, suspect CPU chip Z25. If two displays have a missing digit, suspect chips Z17,Z24,Z26. If only one display has a missing digit, suspect the display itself.
  • CPU chip Z25 (74154) controls the three digit CPU chips Z17,Z24,Z26.
  • CPU chip Z17 controls player 1, player 3, and the bonus display.
  • CPU chip Z24 controls player 2, player 4, and the credit/ball count.
  • CPU chip Z26 controls the the status display.

• If there is a Segment problem in two or more of your displays, check these chips. Remember connector J2 takes the segment lines to the displays. If all displays have a segment problem, suspect CPU chip Z16. If two displays have a display problem, suspect chips Z19,Z21,Z23. If one display has a segment problem, suspect the UDN6116 chip on the display itself.
  • CPU chip Z16 (7404) is the main segment controlling chip. If a segment is out on all displays, chances are good Z16 is the problem.
  • CPU chips Z18,Z20,Z22 (74175) feed Z19,Z21,Z23 (7448) respectively. If a segment is out on a pair of displays, chances are good its a 74175/7448 pair that is bad. The Z19,Z21,Z23 (7448) are the most problematic though (I don't think I have ever changed a 74175 to fix a segment problem).
  • CPU chips Z18,Z19 control segments on players 1 and 2 displays.
  • CPU chips Z20,Z21 control segments on players 3 and 4 displays.
  • CPU chips Z22,Z23 control segments on playfield bonus and 4-digit status displays.
• The number One: "I had a situation where displays 3 and 4 on a Black Hole would work perfectly, except that they would not display the digit '1' in any position at any time." One might think this would be a *digit* problem and not a *segment* problem, hence replacing the CPU board and display board digit chips. But this problem is really a *segment* problem, since the '1' character is really just a segment, and hence the digit '1' is actually treated like a segment. Replacing Z16 on the CPU board fixed this problem.

• Six digit displays use two UDN6118 (NTE2021) chips. If a single display is completely dead, this chip could be the problem.

Segment distribution on 6-digit displays.

Segment distribution on 4-digit displays.

Brightening Score Displays.
One can easily brighten dim, worn out looking Gottlieb displays. The outside pins of the display glass normally use +5 volts. If 6 to 12 volts (for 6-digit displays) or 6 to 9 volts (for 4-digit credit displays) is attached to the outside pins, this will burn the oxidants off the display lines and make the display brighter.

When doing this, if using DC voltage, it doesn't matter which pin is connected to positive and which is negative; just make sure to use the two outer most pins of the glass display. Note that using AC voltage is much friendlier to the displays.

A lower voltage is used for the smaller 4 digit credit display. This is done because the internal horizontal power wires are shorter on this display. Do not exceed 6 to 9 volts for the smaller 4 digit display!

To brighten a display, a standard 9 volt battery can be used! This is very convenient, because the score displays do not need to be removed from the backbox. First disconnect the connector from the display. Then use alligator lead wires from the battery to the two outside leads of the display glass. Again, it does not matter which outside lead is positive or negative. After the displays are connected to the 9 volt battery, leave the display connected for a minute or two. The horizontal lines within the display should become red hot. Note the display lines should not get white. If they are white (or even red!), too much voltage is going through the display. After the display is "super charged", remove the alligator leads, and re-install the display's edge connector.

Using the +12 volts from the filter cap to brighten a display. Really this should be done with the 6.3 volts AC available at the coin door lamp sockets, as this lower AC voltage is more gentle on the displays.

If a 9 volt battery is not available, the game's power supply can also be used. With the game off, remove the display to brighten. Using alligator clips and wire, carefully (!) attach the clips to the voltage desired. To use the friendier 6.3 volts, connect the aligator clips to a coin door lamp socket. If using the brute force 12 volts, connect the alligator lead wires to the large +12 volt filter capacitor in the bottom of the cabinet (this is the one replaced in the power supply mod section). Attach the other ends of the alligator clips to the two outside leads of the display glass itself. It doesn't matter which outside lead is positive or negative if using DC voltage.

After the displays are connected to the power source, turn the game on. For 6.3 volts AC, leave the display connected for a minute or two. If using 12 volts, only leave the power on for 5 to 30 seconds. If you are using the 12 volts, the horizontal lines within the display may become red hot. Using 6.3 volts AC is much more gentle on the display. Note the display lines should not be white. If they are white (or even red!), too much voltage is going through the display. After the display is "super charged", turn the game off, remove the alligator leads, and re-install the display glass.

The horizontal lines within the display that are "supercharged" to brighten the display. Note these lines shouldn't glow white, or even red during this process.

After a year or so the display may go dim again, but one can do the same trick and it will come back. Eventually it may not come back, but even so, with a display otherwise to be thrown away, what can one lose?

Brightening 6 Digit Displays, Another Way.
In addition to the above brightening trick, Pascal Janin has come up with some other tricks for brightening 4, 6 and 7 digit (only) displays.

Pascal suggests moving the lower connection of the 10k resistor (between the two UDN6118 chips) from its original position to the top leg of the .01 mfd capacitor. This gives a better power connection (less power noise). Some display board may have a hole drilled just above the capacitor, making this modification very easy. It's also a good idea to replace the 10k resistor with a new one.

Pascal also suggests these tips on 4, 6 and 7 digit displays. Overall dim displays will be brightened to like-new. Do these modifications to all of the displays at once, not just selected displays. If certain segments are significantly dimmer than others, it will not completely restore them. But it will give the display an overall increase in brightness.
• Resolder all solder joints going to the tube's pins.
• Resolder all solder joints of both UDN6118 chips, and the chip on the 4 digit display.
• Replace the 10k resistor (that was moved above) with a new one.
• Replace both .01 mfd at 100 volt capacitors with new ones.
• Replace the polarized 1 mfd at 100 volt capacitor with a new capacitor:
  • 4 digit display: 2.2 mfd at 100 volts
  • 6 or 7 digit display: 4.7 mfd at 100 volts

System 80b Displays.
The displays used on sys80b are again the Futaba displays, but they are alpha-numeric. Mark posted this info on the displays, and I largely cut-and-pasted (and corrected) this info.

Sys80b Connecttor A4J1, display board:

• Pin 1 = 6.2 vac feed (Display Filament)
• Pin 2 = 6.2 vac return
• Pin 3 = 32 vac feed (This gets rectified into -45VDC and -15VDC)
• Pin 4 = 32 vac return
• Pin 6 = Reset (Reset signal from Control Board A1J2 Pin 24). The reset signal also continues to the sound board.
• Pin 7 = +5 vdc
• Pins 9,10 = LD1,LD2
• Pins 11-18 = Data0-7
• Pin 19 = Ground

On A4J1 pin 3,4 power comes in as 32 volts AC and goes to four CR1-CR4 1N4004 diodes, rectifying the power to DC. Diode VR1 (1n4737a) is used to get -45 volts DC, and VR2 (1N4744a) is used to get -15 volts DC. Also be aware that R2 (10k) and R1 (1k, 2 watts) should be checked as these disapate some heat in the voltage rectifying.

On the display board, also check resistors R3 (22k), R4 (10k), and R5 (3k). Display board chips Z1,Z2 are 7417 hex buffers and usually don't go bad. The same basic signal should be seen on the input and output of these two chips.

The voltages and signals on the display board can also be tested on the U1,U2,U3 chips. Also note that Q1 (2n3906) should be tested (power off) with a DMM set to diode function. With the power on, the reset line should go HIGH immediately after power-on (the signal starts low, but the CPU board triggers it high 50ms after bootup if all is working). This is the same reset signal seen at the CPU board chips U4-U6 pin 34 (RIOT).

The reset signal leaves the CPU board U5 pin 17 RIOT (Display Control chip) and goes to Z17 pin 1 (7404, an inverter). It then leaves Z17 pin 2 (as an inverted signal) and goes to CPU connector A1J2 Pin 24, and ultimately to the display and sound board.

Sys80b Display Board U1,U2 (digit drivers 10939).
Note this is not an easy chip to find, but usually it doesn't go bad:

• Pins 1,38 = clock
• Pin 2 = SOP
• Pin 3 = SIP
• Pins 6-13 = data DB0-DB7
• Pins 15-34 = data D40-D21
• Pin 35 = -45 vdc
• Pin 36 = +5 vdc
• Pin 37,39 = -15 vdc
• Pin 40 = data-load

Sys80b Display Board U3 (segment driver 10941).
Note this is not an easy chip to find, but usually it doesn't go bad:

• Pin 1 = -15 vdc
• Pin 2 = +5 vdc
• Pins 6-15 = segments n,m,l,k,j,i,h,g,f,e
• Pin 16 = -45 vdc
• Pin 17 = d segment
• Pins 19,20 = segment c,b
• Pin 22 = segment a
• Pin 23 = clock
• Pin 24 = data-load

Black Hole, Haunted House, Volcano and Mars have back box "running lights" that go around the back box. These lights are controlled by a separate lamp driver board. The CPU has nothing to do with these lamps. They should start up immediately upon powering on the game.

The only difference between the Auxiliary Lamp Driver board in these games is resistor R13. It's value determines the length of time any lamp is lit. The values for each game are:

• Black Hole: 270k
• Haunted House: 1.1meg
• Volcano: 560k
• Mars God of War: 330k

If a lamp driver board doesn't work, check the 555 timer chip with a logic probe on pin 3. It should pulse. Just follow the schematic from this pin until the output of any of the other chips in the chain doesn't pulse with the logic probe.

Also check the MPS-U45 transistors. They are all connected to the 10 pin molex connector. Use the logic probe on these pins; any that don't pulse may mean a bad MPS-U45. One can also check these with a DMM set to the diode setting (as described above in the transistor testing section).

Note the corrections to the Black Hole and Haunted House manuals on page 15 or 16 for fuses F6 and F7 are shown here (they are normal fuses, not slo-blo).

General:

• There is a 5 second delay after power-on until the displays light and the game is operational (assuming the slam switch is closed and the tilt switches are open). Does not apply to System80a or 80b.
• The normally closed SLAM switch in the coin door must be closed for the game to operate!
• Because of the above slam switch condition, connector J5 on the CPU board must be connected and making good contact or the slam switch won't be closed. The game won't run without this CPU connector in place.
• Symptom: Game is turned on and displays immediately come up with "000000", plus the displays flicker in a rolling scroll sideways and the start switch does nothing. Cure: a problem with the normally closed SLAM switch circuit on the game. Either the coin door slam switch is open, or the ball roll cage switch is open or has a poor connection, or the CPU board's J5 connector has a problem. It is recommended to do the Slam Switch Modification outline above in this document.
• There are three normally open TILT switches on System 80 games: one under the playfield, a pendulum bob assembly, and a ball roll assembly. These switches must be open for the game to turn on. If any of these switches are closed, the game will power-on with the displays immediately showing zeros. Nothing more will happen, and the game will not run until these three switches are open and the game is powered on again.
• Make sure the coin switches are NOT making contact (normally open). Some games will not start-up if the coin switches are closed.
• Symptom: Game is turned on and displays immediately come up with "000000", no flicker and the start switch does nothing. Cure: A common problem for Gottlieb pinballs is that the coin lockout wire gets jammed into the coin switches. The symptom of this is the game is locked up, displays may come on as soon as the game is turned on, and when the start button is pressed the displays may go blank (John Robertson).
• If CPU connector A1-J6 (the playfield switch matrix strobe connector) is not connected (or is making bad contact), the solenoids can lock-on and burn! This is game dependent, but has to do with Gottlieb's design of how the coils are activated relative to the switch matrix (which ultimately signals the CPU to activate a coil).
• Game rule ROMs at U2 and U3 are specific to a group of games. That is, there are different rule ROMs for System 80a than for System 80. Be aware of this if swapping CPU boards between systems.
• The CPU board has three 6532, 40 pin RIOT (RAM, I/O, Timing) chips. If a game dies, first suspect these. Since there are three, just swap them around and power the game on. If it does something different, it's one (or more) of these 6532's. Note many times these chips are not socketed. I always socket them regardless if they work or not. This way I can service the game easier down the road. Of the three 6532's on the CPU board, U4 controls the switch matrix. U5 controls the digital displays. U6 controls the solenoid and lamp matrix. If having problems with any of these, check those 6532's.
• Having lamp problems? The CPU board uses chips Z32 (lamp control) and Z35 and Z34 for lamp latch strobes (before these three chips is Z33). The Z35, Z34 and Z32 chips go to connector J4.
• The CPU clock signal is controlled by chips Z3 (7404) and Z2 (7474). When replacing these, make sure to use the exact same chip types. For example, do not replace Z3 with a 74S04 or a 74LS04, as the timing signal will be different. But for most other chips on the CPU board, use the LS or ALS or HCT (74LS74, 74ALS74, 74HCT74) versions of the chip. These use less power (and hence generate less noise on the +5 volt power lines). However, do not spend extra money for the even faster "AS" or "F" variants, as this is just wasting money.
• If turning your game on, and only a "111111" is displayed in the player one display, this means the F2 (+5 volt) fuse is blown.
• A System 80 won't reconize the dip switch settings. Try checking the CPU board chips Z13 and Z14. These chips then feed to Z15, and to Z33 in the lamp control area. Also the dip switches feed to connector J6.
• When installing the playfield mounted 2N5879 transistors, here's a tip to help with the wiring. With the transistor front facing left, pins right, long part of transistor up, the farthest pin from you (base lead which connects to the white/red/red wire) is always connected to the driver board. The nearest pin to you (emitter) connects to the NON-banded diode side of the coil. The case (collector) gets the green ground.

• The sound board also uses one (depending on which sound board) 6532 chips. If having sound problems, first try replacing this chips to see if different problems occur.
• Other than the sound board, the CPU board can also fail. Check chip Z31 which is connected to the above solenoid chips (so it knows which sound to use for the appropriate switch). The Z31 chip goes to connector J4.
• Check Z13 on the driver board (in addition to chip Z31 on the CPU board). If this chip is bad on the driver board, the sounds will never be triggered on the sound board.
• The ouput signal for the Sound and Speach (S&S) board originates on the CPU board. But the sound is buffered on the Driver board before going to the S&S board. This makes troubleshooting sound problems more difficult. A bad buffer driver IC on the Driver board could be why some or all of the sounds are missing.
• If the game has a speech and sound board (Mars God of War, and later), and the game is slam tilted, the background sound may stay on. To prevent this, change dip switch# 25 on the CPU board to ON.
• On the sound board, note the C33 capacitor (.1 mfd 25 volts), next to pin 1 of edge connector. This cap is no big deal by itself, it does +30 volt DC decoupling for the audio amplifier LM379S. The problem is that it is connected to +30 volts DC, while it is rated for only 25 volts! On two boards I just acquired, C33 was TOASTED! Better change this capacitor while there's still time..
• There is no sound 16 when I test my Haunted House sound board. What should I check? Sound 16 (signals DS3 and LD4) come from the CPU at lamp control Z32 (7417) and Z34 (7404). Then those signals pass through the A1J4 connector to the driver board (a bad connection here and no sound 16). Those signals then go to Z3 (74175) on the driver board and this powers the Q10 transistor (might want to check for a bad MPS-A13 transistor), then passes through the A3J2-9 connector. From there, it heads to connector A12J4/P4-6. From that connector, it heads to A6J1 (at the sound/speech board). Simple huh?

• Flippers don't work during game play: flippers and other 24 volt coils are turned on by the "U" relay when a game starts. If this relay was knocked out of alignment, it may not close properly. Try a simple test of the "U" relay; With the game turned on and in attract mode, hold the "U" relay in by hand. The flipper should now work. If the "U" relay is not working properly, there may be a bad U18 transistor (on Haunted House) or U17 or U18 (on Black Hole), or a bad connector at A1-J4.
• When first turning a System 80 game on that has remote 2N5875 or 2N5879 transistors (Volcano, Black Hole, Haunted House), all these solenoids "pump on" for a second. This is normal.
• Having problems with solenoids? Other than the solenoid driver board, the CPU board can also fail. These chips are Z27, Z28, Z29 and Z30, and go to connector J4.
• Be careful when changing the diode on playfield coils; don't get it reversed! If this happens, the coil won't work and can damage the associated driver board transistor. If a coil has a playfield mounted 2N5879, a reversed diode will immediately blow that transistor. So if a transistor keeps failing, look for a reversed diode. Don't assume the guy before installed the diode correctly! This is true with all pinballs (not just Gottlieb), the DC power line coming to the coil is always on the banded diode side of the coil.

Black Hole has an animated back glass with a motorized spinning disc. This motor operates at all times while the game is turned on. Most Black Hole motors do not work because they became too noisy or failed due to constant operation.

Motor Replacement Method One: Using the Original Gearbox Parts.
This procedure works if an original Black Hole motor gearbox is still good (no stripped gears). If the gearbox the motor connects to is still in good shape, the motor itself can easily be replaced. It's easy to tell if the gearbox is good; just try spinning the disk by hand with the game off. If the disk won't spin, the gearbox is probably good. If the disk spins easily (make sure the set screw is tight!), the gears are usually stripped, and the whole gearbox and motor will need to be replaced (see the procedure below, Motor Replacement Method Two: Using all New, Heavy-duty parts).

Motor Replacement Parts Needed:

• (1) Radio Shack 9-18vdc Motor, part number 273-256.
• (3) 1/2" long, 6-32 bolts.
• (1) 6-32 Tap.
• (2) small 1/2" screws (size unknown).
• (1) 10 ohm, 5 watt resistor

Note: I'm using the Radio Shack motor #273-256. But Radio Shack also sells a motor that is nearly identical, part number 273-255. One can use this motor too, but the final speed of the spinning disc will probably be different. Because of this, the value of the 5 watt resistor may have to be changed, or not used at all.

Procedure:

• Remove the entire motor assembly from the back glass.
• Remove the metal casing that houses the motor. There are two metal taps that will need to be bent to do this.
• Remove the gear box from the motor. To do this, drill out the three metal rivets with an 7/64" drill bit. Drill all the way through, and remove the motor and gear plate from the gearbox.
• Remove the small brass gear from the end of the old motor with pliers.
• Remove the two small screws holding the old motor to the gear plate, and remove the motor from the gear plate.
• Cut the new Radio Shack motor shaft to the same length as the old motor shaft (about 7mm). I used a bench grinder or Dremel tool to do this.
• Press the brass gear onto the new motor shaft.
• Bolt the new motor onto the gear plate. I had to buy new screws for this as the old ones were just bearly too short.
• Use a 6-32 tap and tap new threads into the gearbox housing where the rivets used to be.
• Drill out the three motor gear plate mounting holes with a 9/64" bit for the new 1/2" 6-32 screws to fit.
• Put a bunch of grease inside the gearbox. Pack it in.
• Re-assemble the motor and gearbox. Use three 1/2" long 6-32 screws to bolt the motor gear plate to the gearbox.
• Re-assemble the rest of the motor and re-install.
• Make sure to install the TIP125 modification mentioned below so the motor only runs during game play. Otherwise the new motor can wear out very quickly.

The Radio Shack motor runs too fast (it should only rotate the big disk at 1 to 10 revolutions per minute). To slow it down, splice a 10 ohm 5 watt resistor into the power lead of the motor (white/orange wire). If the motor slows down too much, it won't have enough torque to spin the disk. Try other values if the motor spins too slow.

Motor Replacement Method Two: Using all New, Heavy-duty parts.
This fix was written by and conceived by Dave Sherman in Iowa. If the original Black Hole motor gearbox is stripped (VERY common), this is the only fix.

Using a new Grainger motor and gearbox for the Blackhole spinning disk in the backbox.

Grainger (www.grainger.com) sells 12-volt gear motors in their catalog and at local stores (a nation-wide industrial supply house, located in nearly every US city). These industrial quality motors cost less than $40, are available in a wide range of speeds including 0.45, 1.5, 3.4, and 4.5 rpm and are rated for continuous duty. They are quite a bit larger than the original BH motor, weighing 1.1-1.2 lbs. (c.500g). The BH disc should spin at about 1 rpm, so the 1.5 rpm motor works well for this application.

The Grainger gear motor fits beautifully (see picture) with only minor modification to the light backbox board (drill 4 mounting holes for the motor), and the part that mounts the plastic disc to the motor shaft.

This works really well with only two potential minor drawbacks: if a speed faster than 1.5 rpm is bought, the disk will turn too quick, and may be a bit noisy. A resistor can be used to get the disc to turn at about 1 rpm, and at this speed the motor is nearly silent. The Grainger motors are tough and one can expect to have no trouble with it again in the future. Anybody can do this modification, all the tools and parts required for the fix are common, and the whole procedure takes about two hours. The spinning disc is a very interesting visual effect, as the Black Hole on the disc spins counter-clockwise - the opposite of the chase lights in the head.

Grainger Part numbers:

• 0.50 rpm - Part# 2L003 - rated at 1/2800 HP and 50 in/lbs torque
• 1.5 rpm - Part# 2L004 - rated at 1/900 HP and 46 in/lbs torque
• 3.4 rpm - Part# 2L005 - rated at 1/425 HP and 44 in/lbs torque
• 4.5 rpm - Part# 2L006 - rated at 1/325 HP and 43 in/lbs torque
• 8.8 rpm - Part# 2L007 - rated at 1/175 HP and 41 in/lbs torque
• 12 rpm - Part# 2L008 - rated at 1/125 HP and 40 in/lbs torque

The procedure is as follows:

• Remove the spinner disk from the gearmotor assembly. Then remove the adapter on the motor shaft by backing out the set-screw.
• Remove the old motor and mounting bracket. To give more room to work, remove the CPU board from the back of the light board at this time.
• Remove the wire harness screws and move the wire harness out of the way.
• The Grainger's gearmotor comes with 4 mounting screws installed on the shaft side of the gearbox. Hold the gearbox up to the back of the light board with the mounting screws resting on the board, the motor cylinder towards the left and the gearbox squared with the driver board. After lining up the shaft location in the center of the hole, mark the location where each mounting screw contacts the back of the light board. At this point adjust it a little to avoid any lamp wiring attached to the back of the light board. Don't worry if the gearbox goes over the lamp wires, just don't drill through one. Drill four 3/16" (4.8mm) holes in the light board at the marks.
• Now remove the 4 mounting screws from the new gearbox. Turn these screws out using a wrench on the hex portion of the mounting screw where it meets the gearbox. Four 1.5" #8 pan head screws (sheet metal type, not machine screws) and rubber washers will be used to mount the gearbox to the light board. Place a rubber washer over each screw and from the front of the light board push these screws through the holes just drilled. Put another rubber washer over each screw from the back of the light board. The rubber washers not only hold the gearbox off the lamp wires, but also dampen vibration and noise. To be safe put two layers of electrical tape on the surface of the gearbox that would be over these wires. Put electrical tape over the bare wires stapled to the lightbox panel, under where the gearbox will be mounted. Screw into the holes on the gearbox, and the motor is now mounted.
• The adapter disc that connects the spinner disc to the motor shaft must be drilled out to adapt to the new larger motor shaft. Be sure to turn the set-screw out before doing this. Use a 5/16" (7.9mm) drill (verify this with the motor shaft first) and use a drill press if possible to ensure true alignment.

The spacers installed so the spinning disk doesn't rub on the backglass.

• Assemble this to the new motor shaft with the adapter as far out on the shaft as possible while still being able to tighten the set-screw onto the shaft. Because the motor shaft is shorter and the adapter disk is further back in the light board, build up some sort of spacer to hold the spinner disc in proper location in the back box. Use a stack of washers and longer (1") 6x32 screws (with the heads painted black) to attach the spinner disk to the adapter and to position it to clear the lights and not rub on the backglass. (see picture)
• With every thing now mounted, reinstall the bottom connectors on the CPU board. Then remount the CPU board. Attach the moved wiring harness. Lastly, connect the remaining CPU board connectors. All connectors should clear the motor.
• The 1.5" pan screws protrude slightly from the back of the motor, put a dab of silcone adhesive on each protruding screw. This will prevent these screws from poking the wiring harness.
• If the motor spins too fast, wire a resistor in series with the motor power lead (try a 10 ohm 10 watt resistor) and insulate all exposed conductors. Hook the motor leads to the existing motor wires. Job complete!

Turning the Motor On Only During Game Play

Method One:
To increase reliability and decrease stress on the original or Radio Shack motor, it is advisable to make the following change so the motor only turns during game play. This modification is probably not needed if the heavy duty Grainger motor was installed.

Parts Needed:

• (1) TIP125 transistor (or NTE262)
• (2) IN4002 diodes

Procedure:

• Cut the green wire running to the motor and connect this ground lead to the emitter of the TIP125.
• Connect the non-banded lead of one 1N4002 diode to the collector of the TIP125 transistor. Connect the other banded end of the diode to the Green/Yellow wire going to the wiring harness (that used to connect to the motor).
• Connect the non-banded lead of the second 1N4002 diode to the base of the TIP125 transistor. Splice the other banded end of the diode into the White/Red/Gray wire connecting to the Driver board at connector A3-J3, pin /A. As looking at the front of the driver board, this is the wire that connects to the back of the board at connector A3-J3, 3rd pin from the right. Add some kind of connector to this wire (otherwise when removing the head one will have to cut this wire).
• If replacing the motor with a Radio Shack motor #273-256, use a 10 ohm 5 watt resistor on the power lead (White/Orange/Red) of the motor to slow the motor down.

This changes the ground path for the motor to be active only when the Game Over Relay is energized (during game play).



Method Two:
The second method is more mechanical. Instead of using a TIP125 transistor, a switch is phyically added to the Game Over relay. This switch interrupts the power going to the motor. When a game is started the Gave Over relay is energized, closing this added switch, completing the power to the motor. This is essentially the same thing as "method one", but doing it without a transistor.

Having trouble with the Haunted House Trap Door? This coil uses a MPS-U45 at postion Q17 on the Driver board that connects to a playfield mounted 2N5879 power transistor. Make sure to do the 4.7k ohm resistor pull up modification (as described in the Pull up Resistor Addition section) on this playfield mounted transistor.

The coil used for the trap door is a flipper-style coil, with a high powered winding and a low powered winding. The high-powered side of the coil pulls in the trap door and presses an EOS (end of stroke) switch. This normally closed EOS switch opens, and turns on the low powered section of the coil (so the coil doesn't burn while the trap door is held open). If the trap door won't open and the transistors are good, check and clean that EOS switch. If it's not making good contact, the trap door will never open!

Also, fuse F14 controls the trap door, right side extra ball kicker, and main playfield upkicker. This is a 2.5 slo-blo fuse, but I found this too low a rating. Gottlieb uses a 5 amp slo-blo fuse on circuits with just one kicker, so why did they specify a 2.5 amp fuse here? If this fuse keeps blowing, use a 5 amp slo-blo instead.

On Haunted House and Black Hole, when the ball goes to the lower playfield, nine bright lights turn on to illuminate the lower PF. These are special 24 volt #313 lights, which run off the solenoid voltage. The 313 bulbs are not so easy to find, so here's a way to convert them to using standard #44 bulbs that run off 6 volts. (Actually I prefer to use #55 bulbs, but 44 bulbs work fine too.) The lighting with #44 or 55 bulbs won't be quite as bright as the 24 volt #313 bulbs, but it's really close. Both Tim Arnold and Steve Charland recommend this modification.

First you need to find the "L" relay, which energizes when the ball goes to the lower playfield. The L relay is located under the lower playfield. Now remove the orange-slate-slate wire (24 volts) from the L relay switch stack, and tape it off and wire wrap it away from the relay. Then jumper a wire to it's switch lug from the 6 volt DC controlled lighting power line (black-slate-slate). The 6 volt DC line is used at all the CPU controlled lights, so it's real easy to find this power line. Lastly replace all the original #313 lamps with #44 or #55 lamps. That's all there is to it! Note we don't use the 6 volt AC general illumination line because the 44 lamps won't be bright enough.

The start switch is doubled up with a second leaf switch.

When checking out the dip switches on a System 80 game, there is no provision for free play on these games. The best that can be done via the dip switches is getting 9 credits per coin (or 18 credits on the center coin chute), and setting the maximum credits to 25. But there is a solution without drilling the coin door for a credit switch, or having to put quarters in your game.

This procedure outlines how to make the start button also work as a credit button. So when you press the start button, it automatically adds a credit, then starts the game (thus removing the just added credit). To do this double up the credit leaf switch with another leaf switch, which will add the credits.

Parts Needed:

• An old leaf switch (the old Slam switch can be used).
• Fish paper (again, the old slam switch fish paper can be used).
• Longer bolts for the start switch.
• Some wire.

Procedure:

• Set game dip switches so that at least one coin switch is set to one coin/one game (1/1). Also set the maximum number of credits to 25.
• Remove the existing start leaf switch from the inside of the coin door by removing the two screws.
• Unstack the stacked leaf switch and add the additional (two contact) leaf switch. You'll have to remove some of the spacers to do this.
• Make sure there's some "fish paper" (insulating paper) between the two switches so they do not touch (short) when the button is pressed!
• Re-assemble the leaf switch and install back into the coin door.
• Make sure the newly added switch is activated first, before the start switch is activated.
• Attach the two leads of the new leaf switch to the coin switch you adjusted in the first step.

Now when pressing the start button, a credit will first be added, and then the game will start and remove the just added credit. This works especially great if there is no battery installed (hence unused credits are lost when the game is powered off). Otherwise additional unused credits will pile up from matches and replays, until the 25 maximum credit limit is reached. If this is a problem, disable the match and replay options via the dip switches.

Using the (unused) Slam Switch as the Second Switch.
The coin door slam switch can be used as the second switch for the start button. To do this, first remove the two slam switch wires, and connect them permanently together. Then remove the slam switch and its fish paper from the coin door. Cut the weight off the long blade of the slam switch. Now the slam switch can be transplanted to the start button, as described above.

The Black Hole manual has an error on page 13 showing which coils are energized during the solenoid test. Here is the correct order:
1. "HOLE" drop targets, main playfield
2. "BLACK" drop targest, main playfield
3. Left Coin Counter (if present)
4. Right Coin Counter (if present)
5. YELLOW drop targets, lower playfield
6. WHITE drop targets, lower playfield
7. Center Coin Counter (if present)
8. Knocker
9. Outhole

The switch matrix for Haunted House follows. Shown is the MPU board connector, MPU board chip input/output, wire color and switch description/number. The switch matrix Strobes go through chips U11 and U12 on the MPU board, and then to the 6532 RIOT chip U4. The switch matrix Returns go through chips Z13 and Z14, and then to the 6532 RIOT chip U4. All switches have a 1N270 diode (NTE109, germanium general purpose diode, 75 prv, DO-7 case, but a 1N4004 can also be used) connecting them to the their Strobe line (band connected to the Strobe, non-band connected to the switch).

Although Gottlieb often doesn't show it in their switch matrix diagram, switches in column 7 (switch number ending in 7) are common for most (if not all) System 80 games:

• Switch 07: test button on coin door
• Switch 17: left coin slot
• Switch 27: right coin slot
• Switch 37: center coin slot
• Switch 47: replay switch (start/credit button)
• Switch 57: ball roll tilt and plumb bob switches.
• Switch 67: outhole switch (often, but not always)
• Switch 77: haven't seen this one used

Unfortunately, the Haunted House and Black Hole manuals don't tell which transistors control which devices. One can figure it out from the schematics, but that's too much work. So here's the list, sorted by transistor number.

Black Hole Transistor List
Trans	Type	Description
Q1 Q2 Q3 Q4 Q5 Q6 Q7 Q8 Q9 Q10 Q11 Q12 Q13 Q14 Q15 Q16 Q17 Q18 Q19 Q20 Q21 Q22 Q23 Q24 Q25 Q26 Q27 Q28 Q29 Q30 Q31 Q32 Q33 Q34 Q35 Q36 Q37 Q38 Q39 Q40 Q41 Q42 Q43 Q44 Q45 Q46 Q47 Q48 Q49 Q50 Q51 Q52 Q53 Q54 Q55 Q56 Q57/Q58 Q59 Q60 Q61/Q62 Q63/Q64	MPS-U45 MPS-U45 MPS-U45 MPS-U45 MPS-A13 MPS-A13 MPS-A13 MPS-A13 MPS-A13 MPS-A13 MPS-A13 MPS-A13 MPS-U45 MPS-U45 MPS-U45 MPS-U45 MPS-U45 MPS-U45 MPS-U45 MPS-U45 MPS-U45 MPS-U45 MPS-U45 MPS-U45 MPS-U45 MPS-U45 MPS-U45 MPS-U45 MPS-U45 MPS-U45 MPS-U45 MPS-U45 MPS-A13 MPS-A13 MPS-A13 MPS-A13 MPS-A13 MPS-A13 MPS-A13 MPS-A13 MPS-A13 MPS-A13 MPS-A13 MPS-A13 MPS-U45 MPS-U45 MPS-U45 MPS-U45 MPS-U45 MPS-U45 MPS-U45 MPS-U45 2N6043 MPS-U45 MPS-U45 MPS-U45 MPS-U45/2N3055 2N6043 2N6043 MPS-U45/2N3055 MPS-U45/2N3055	Game over relay "Q", bottom upper PF Tilt relay "T", bottom uppper PF Coin lockout coil, coin door L3/L2 shoot again lamp, main PF and lightbox L4 drop target 3 bank special, lower PF L5 2x lamp left, lower PF L6 3x lamp right, lower PF L7 left spinning target, upper PF L8 ball return gate to ball upkicker, thru Q3 2N5879, lower PF L9 sound 16, to sound board L11 high game to date lamp, lightbox L10 game over lamp, lightbox L12 hole kicker, thru Q4 2N5879, lower PF L13 hole kicker, thru Q1 2N5879, upper PF L14 ball lift kicker to upper PF, thru Q5 2N5879, lower PF L15 ball release to shooter lane, thru Q2 2N5879, upper PF L16 general illumination light relay "U", upper PF L17 general illumination light relay "L", lower PF