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from 1985 to 1989 by cfh@provide.net (Clay Harrell), 10/27/19. Copyright 2003-2017 all rights reserved. All pictures and text are by Clay Harrell, except where noted.
Scope.
Internet Availability of this Document.
IMPORTANT: Before Starting! Table of Contents
2. Before Turning the Game On:
Bibliography and Credit Where Credit is Due.
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1a. Getting Started: Experience, Schematics
What Repair Experience Is Expected?
Manual/Schematics - REQUIRED FOR THIS SYSTEM OF GAMES. Some online schematics are available too:
1b. Getting Started: Necessary Tools
Non-Specialized Tools Required:
Specialized Tools Required: Cleaning "Tools" Required:
1c. Getting Started: Parts to Have On-Hand
Parts to have: The transistors and diodes are available from many sources. Please visit the Parts reference page for suggested sites.
1d. Getting Started: Bally 6803 Game List. 6803 Games with four 7-digit Numeric Score displays and Squawk & Talk sound board, keypad used. These games also used one six digit score display (only 4 digits used) for credits/match.
6803 Games with four 7-digit Numeric Score displays and Cheap Squeak sound board. These games also used one six digit score display (only 4 digits used) for credits/match.
6803 Games with two 9 segment, 14-digit alphanumeric displays and Turbo Cheap Squeak sound board. These score displays were "low res" with only nine segments. "Registers" no longer used for adjustments, keypad used.
6803 Games with two 9 segment, 14-digit alphanumeric displays and Sounds Deluxe sound board. These score displays were "low res" with only nine segments.
6803 games under the Williams/Bally name.
1e. Getting Started: Introduction to Bally 6803. Bally's 6803 system, used from 1985 to 1989, incorporated some unique features and designs that differed from the other pinball manufacturers. Generally speaking, these games were not that good, but there were some "stars" amoung the black (Strange Science probably being the most notable). The "6803 Control Board" (aka "CPU Board", which is what I call it in this document) used a 6803 CPU chip as the brains of these games (and hence the "6803" name). The 6803 was different than the 6802/6808 used by Williams previously, in that the 6803 supports "multiplexing". As Bally used multiplexing, this allowed the CPU chip to support more CPU controlled playfield lamps and flash lamps with less driver board SCRs (transistors). The 6803 chip also has onboard RAM, much like the 6802 chip. Two 6821 PIA (Peripheral Interface Adaptor) chips were used to interface the 6803 CPU chip to the lamps, coils and switches (much like the Bally -35 boardset and Williams' pinball systems). Static RAM is handled by a 6116 RAM chip (instead of the problematic and discontinued 5101). Most noteworthy is the use of a single board for both the CPU board and driver board. This minimized the number of connectors needed in the game (connectors were always a source of reliability problems in electronic pinballs). Another concept transplanted from the earlier and very successful Bally "-35" CPU board was the power-on LED flashes. The new 6803 CPU board also had power-on flashes to diagnose problems with the board. This power-on flash concept stayed until Escape from Lost World, Blackwater 100, Truckstop and Atlantis, when Bally took a step back. Instead of doing the power-on flashes, these games have just a faint single power-on "flicker" if the CPU board passed power-on diagnostics. If the board found a problem, then the flash sequence started.
The feature lamps (CPU driven lamps) were also just AC powered, 11 volts AC to be exact. The same principle occured with these. The secondary 20.5v AC was center-tapped to produce two 11v AC lines, phases A & B. No rectifier and no filter cap. These lines were wired to two 'sets' of feature lamps that shared the same SCR on the CPU board, as per the flashers. The reason 11 volts AC is used and not 6 volts AC becomes clear: the voltage is doubled to keep the brightness up because the feature lamps are only on for half the time! So with the CPU board having 45 SCRs (35 small 2n5060 SCRs, and 10 larger MCR106-1 SCRs), Bally could use any combination of 90 feature lamps and flashers as long as a flasher and feature lamp didn't share the same SCR. For example, the Extra ball lamp and the Multi-ball lamp could be wired to the same SCR driver. The EB lamp would be "on" for phase A and "off" for phase B, the Multi-ball lamp would be "off" for phase A but "on" for phase B. The SCR driver was obviously on for both phases. Bally was able to double their feature lamps and flashers by using the same hardware, without resorting to auxillary lamp or solenoid driver boards. Simple but brilliant, but also more problematic when diagnosing problems, as it is more complicated locating lamp/flasher problems. Now how did Bally control the A/B and C/D lines? They used zero-crossing, which occurs 120 times a second for an AC wave (every time the AC wave passes through zero volts). Phase B was wired to zero-crossing detector on the CPU board which generated an NMI interrupt for the 6803 processor. The 6803 then knew when it was time to switch on the 'other' phase SCRs. The 6803 is also capable of directly reading the phase A state because it too is wired into a zero-cross detector on the CPU board. The 6803 can read this zero-cross signal directly because it has ports built into it's architecture. The 6803 just had to keep track of which phase was supposed to be 'on' and toggle the SCRs. (It's likely that the DC solenoids were switched on or off at this point also as this would reduce noise/spikes etc.) Now what about the phase C & D zero-crossing? When are they switched on? Well, the processor wasn't interested in zero-crossing for these phases because *all* the secondary AC lines would pass through zero volts at the *same time*. Therefore, it just had to switch A & C on at the same time and B & D on after that using the interrupt generated from the phase B zero-cross (ad infinitum). This kept the phase switching syncronized. This differed from the technique used by Williams in their System11 pinballs to "double up" a transistor (use a single transistor for two devices). Williams used a A/C relay to control which device was energized. Bally's phase usage was much more elegant, and didn't require the use of a relay (which was problematic for Williams system11 games!) The games also had standard 6.3 volts AC for the General Illumination of the backbox, coin door, and playfield.
Bally also made a "banana cabinet" on Dungeons & Dragons, Escape from the Lost World and Blackwater 100. They were called this because the bottom cabinet sort of bends in the middle. The banana cabinet is a little difficult to use with a dolly, although there is a board across the back end of the cabinet for helping dolly usage. Legs for these are custom, with 34.5" rears and standard 28.5" front legs. But the more common Gottlieb 31" and 27" legs can be used (rear/front respectively) with 3" leg levelers if the originals are gone. Many Bally 6803 games used a single incandescent or fluorescent light for the backbox lighting, and all the games used only 555 bulbs (no 44/47 bulbs anywhere). Also on some 6803 games in the backbox are a small board called the Solid State Relay board. This turns the backbox incandescent bulb on and off. And games such as Dungeons & Dragons, Special Forces, Escape from the Lost World, Heavy Metal Meltdown and Blackwater 100 also used an additional "fuse board", mounted on the left inside of the backbox.
Another Bally cost saving idea was the use of "Low res" alpha-numerics displays. Starting with Motordome, 6803 games used 14 digit alpha-numeric score displays with nine segment instead of 14 segments (Williams System 11 games for example used 14 segment displays). This saved money as less expensive displays could be used, less display logic circuits were required, and less programming was needed. Unfortunately some of the Bally 6803 letters are decidedly funky looking, especially the "K" and "X", and the "G" which looked like a "6". The 6803 games also had some nifty software features unique to these games. For example, on 6803 games with alpha-numeric displays (Special Forces for example), if the player pressed the flipper cabinet buttons during attract mode, the game would walk the player through the playfield shots. This was done by lighting playfield lamps and providing instructions on the score displays.
1f. Getting Started: Circuit Boards.
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2a. Before Turning the Game On: Check the Fuses (Blown Fuses and What Causes Them).
The game's main power fuses are located on the power supply board. With the power off, remove each fuse and check with a DMM set to continuity. Also check the fuse for the proper value and type (slow or fast blow). Replace as needed. The power supply board is nicely silkscreened with what each fuse does and its value. Upper left corner:
Power Supply Test Points.
Missing Voltages and Blown Fuses.
Fuse Board.
2b. Before Turning the Game On: Burnt & Stressed Connectors and Cold Solder Joints.
If any of the solenoid transistors lock on, the 1J14 connector on the upper left of of the CPU board often burns up. Replacement of the CPU power connector J1 is a good idea too.
Stressed Connectors from Lowering and Raising the Backbox.
The last point is the most ugly, as a wire and its connector pins can look intact, but in fact be broken inside the insulation. The only way to test for this is to use a DMM's continuity check from the playfield lamp to the CPU connector J10 to J13 in question. This problem will raise its ugly head when certain CPU controlled lamps do not work. Power Module Board connectors. There are some unusual sized Molex connector pins on the power module board. These are .084" connectors. Here are the part numbers:
2c. Before Turning the Game On: Power Supply Tips The main voltage regulator used on the Bally 6803 power supply is a 78H05 five volt regulator, bolted to the large black heat sink. This is a TO-3 cased regulator that can output up to 5 amps at 5 volts. Unfortunately this is a really hard part to find if it fails. Because of this I am going to try a LM323K voltage regulator, which is TO-3 cased, 3 amps at 5 volts. It is pin-for-pin compatible, and should work fine. The LM323K is used on the older 1977-1985 Bally power supplies, which for sure consumes more power than the newer 6803 system (since the 6803 has less circuit boards and fewer ROMs and less hungry RAM). So it should work just fine. I will report back here with my results. 2d. Before Turning the Game On: Dead CPU Batteries and Corrupt Memory (Game Boots But Won't Start!) If the CPU battery goes dead on a 6803 game, this can cause some problems. Every time the game is turned on with a dead battery, the U4 CMOS memory is at risk of containing erroneous data, and the game may not start play, or even take credits. The problem can be seen by viewing the adjustments, and checking the value for the adjustment in question. Often seen is 9999999 for an adjustment that should have a value 0,1,2 or 3. This can confuse the game enough to not allow a game to start. To fix this, obviously replace the battery. The original NiCad rechargable should be replaced with AA batteries, as shown in the Battery Replacement & Corrosion section of this document. Also make sure you have a manual for the game! Unfortunately, the adjustments are not obvious, and a manual is needed to figure out what adjustment is what, and what value it should be set to! After the battery is replaced and the manual acquired, power the game on. The first thing to check is the number of credits per game in the adjustments. Press the small push button inside the coin door, next to the volume control. This should put the game into audits and adjustments. Using the manual and the 6803 keypad (Dungeons & Dragons and prior), find the credits-per-play adjustment, and make sure this adjustment is set to a valid number! If this is not done, the game will probably not accept credits, and won't start play! After the credits-per-play are entered, set all the other game adjustments as desired. Note some games like Eight Ball Champ won't "talk" unless the adjustments are set correctly. For example, on Eight Ball Champ, adjustment 50 should be set to use the Squawk & Talk sound board (value=1), and sounds mode adjustment 27 set (value=3), otherwise the game will not talk. Also check the balls-per-game adjustment (EBC adjustment 23) is set to a valid number of balls (one to five). Match can be turned on and off (EBC adjustment 29 value=1) on these games, and the credit displayed on the game (EBC adjustment 30 value=1) can be turned on and off. All 6803 games also have a "free play" adjustment (EBC adjustment 42), and if this is set to value 65, the game will start without coins.
2e. Before Turning the Game On: Quick and Dirty Transistor Testing. With the game on, the wiring from the CPU board to the coils, and the coils themselves, can be easily tested. Just momentarily ground the metal tab of any of the 19 solenoid transistors across the top edge of the CPU board.
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3a. When Things Don't Work: Power-On LED Flashes (Non-Working CPU), Corrupt Memory.
A concept transplanted from the earlier and very successful Bally "-35" CPU board was the power-on LED flashes. The new 6803 CPU board also had power-on flashes to diagnose problems with the board. This power-on flash concept stayed until Escape from Lost World, Blackwater 100, Truckstop and Atlantis, when Bally took a step back. Instead of doing the power-on flashes, these games had one faint flicker at power-on if the CPU board passed power-on diagnostics. If the board found a problem, then the flash sequence starts.
CPU LED Flash Overview by Game.
CPU Board Power-On LED Flash Codes. Clive tells us for all the 6803 games except Lost World, Blackwater 100, Truck Stop, Atlantis, the tests work like this. A test is performed, then the LED is flashed once if the test passes, then another test is performed, the LED is flashed again if the test passes, and so on and so on, until all eight or nine tests are complete. If a test fails, the code actually loops forever within the test routine detecting the fault, and no flash is shown for this test. On the last four games Escape from the Lost World, Blackwater 100, Truck Stop, Atlantis, things are done a bit differently. Bally states, "if there is +5 volt DC and +14 volts DC on the CPU board, the game performs a self-diagnostic test. When no problems are encountered, the game powers up immediately without flashing the LED on the Control Board. When a problem is detected, the LED will flash the appropriate number of times for each diagnostic test passed (I.E. if the LED only flashes three times, U4 is probably defective, using the table of power-up sequences below." This is done because as each test is performed, the number of errors encountered is logged. At the end of testing the hardware, the routine that flashes the LED checks this log to determine if it has any flashes (errors) to report. If there are errors, it flashes the LED from the last test passed to indicate where the problem lies. Also note on these last four games an initial power-on faint flicker can be seen. Yet there is nothing in the ROM code that's deliberately causing the power-on 'flicker'. It just a buy-product of accessing the ports a number of times.
Here are the meaning of the LED codes for games Cybernaut, Eight Ball Champ, Hot Shotz, Lady Luck and Beat the Clock. These games all had a single EPROM at U3 (no U2 EPROM).
Nine LED Power-on Flashes and (No Power-on Flashes) Decoded.
NO Led Flashes.
Corrupt Memory. 3b. When Things Don't Work: 6803 ROM Software and Jumper Settings.
CPU Board Jumper Settings JW1 to JW6.
Jumper JW7 should always be out, as this jumpers pulls up the processor serial receiver pin via a 3.3k pull-up.
CPU Board Jumper Settings JW8 to JW11.
So how are these spare drivers used? Well also on the CPU board are two spare PIA outputs, PB14 and PB15, from the 6821 PIA at U7. These too are not connected to anything. This is where the jumpers come in. If the game needs them they can be linked up using the jumpers listed above, and have the software control the driver circuits via the PIA outputs PB14 and PB15. For example, here are the jumpers for Escape from Lost World and Strange Science. Note jumpers JW1 to JW6 are the same for both games (they both use the same size game EPROMs at U2/U3). But the JW8 to JW11 jumpers are interesting:
6803 Pinball ROM Software. Games with U2 CPU game ROM only (8 Flash CPU LED): Games with U2 and U3 CPU game ROMs (9 Flash CPU LED): Games with U2 and U3 CPU game ROMs but only intial faint CPU LED flicker: 3c. When Things Don't Work: Leon's 6803 Test EPROM (fixing a Dead CPU board). The purpose of the test EPROM is to repair the CPU board out of the game and on the work bench, and at the same time test all of the outputs of the lamp and driver transistor sections. We will start by testing the special output ports of the 6803 and the connected PIAs, followed by a memory test, and then the lamps and coils outputs. This gives us a way of testing all circuitry in between the IC output ports and the board's connectors. The game's lamps and coils are simulated on the bench by a series of LEDs plugged directly into the CPU board's connector.
The 6803 control board, normally a battery is at the top in the right corner.
Testing the 6803 On the Work Bench - Getting a Power Supply.
Also remember switching power supplies like the AT and ATX are switch-mode power dependant on load. This means that the power is switched on and off rapidly to meet the load. If there is no load (nothing attached), the output power is switched off. So using a DMM (digital multi-meter) alone to test the power supply output voltages may not be enough draw to make the power supply turn on.
Be careful when you hook up the voltages to your MPU board. If you short +12 volts to +5 volts (for example), you will probably destroy all the chips on the MPU board! Also be careful when you hook up +12 volts. It is VERY easy to short test points. This may damage the MPU board too! (Unlikely, but let's not risk it). So be careful, and double check your connections before you turn the power supply on. In any case, all you need to do is connect the power supply to a wall plug (110 vac), and put aligator clips on the GND, +5 vdc and +12 vdc. That's all you need to power up a Bally 6803 CPU board on your workbench. On a computer power supply, the best way to do this is to use one of the plugs that connected to the computer's hard drive, floppy drive, or CD ROM drive. There are usually at least three of these 4 pin plugs on each computer power supply. These plugs have two black wires, and one red and one yellow wire. The two black wires are ground, the red wire is +5 vdc, and the yellow wire is +12 vdc. I used some crimp-on round male connector pins and jammed them into the plug. Then I connected these to aligator clips, which ultimately go to your MPU board.
CPU Board Test Points.
Connecting Power to the CPU board on the Bench.
These are the settings to use 27128 type EPROMs in U2 and U3. About all the games have 27128 EPROMs as the game ROMs, so most likely you won't have to change any jumper setting. To connect the external power supply to the 6803 CPU board using Leon's Test EPROM, use these power connections. Note connector J1 is on the CPU board at the lower right corner, and J4 is at the upper left corner.
An Additional Power Source.
Download the Test EPROM.
Using the Test EPROM.
What if the Test EPROM Does Not Start Blinking? - Reset Signal
If U1 pin 6 is not +5 volts, the reset circuit is not working. The reset (pin 6) has to go low to 0 volts for just a moment while the +5 volts stablizes at power-on. Then U1 pin 6 should go high signaling a good reset. If this is not the case check the parts above and/or replace them.
The Clock Signal.
The Address and Data Lines. If all U1 signals check out, replace the Test EPROM at U3 and try again. Is there activity with the test EPROM in place? IF the LED still does not blink, check the signal at the U3 Test EPROM. The Test EPROM data lines and address lines should be 2 to 4 volts at U3 pins 1-13, 15-19, 22. At U3 pins 14 and 20 there should be zero volts. And at pins 21,23,24 there should be 0.5 volts. Lastly check the address signals at U3 pins 1-8, which come from the demultiplexer chip U6. If missing one of these signal the U6 chip is bad, or the EPROM is bad. If missing a data signal at pin 9-17, the data demultiplexer chip at U5 is bad. This only leaves U3 pin 22 (the select signal); check U9 and U10 which feeds U3 pin 22.
Test EPROM is Blinking the LED: Checking the PIA/CPU Outputs. If there is one pin not pulsing, bend the pin upwards (out of the socket), and check it again at the chip. If still mising the PIA is bad. If it's now pulsing when bent up and out of the socket, then there is a short on the CPU board on that output line. As we have done with the reset line test, look for the short by removing potentially bad component that connect to that PIA output line. Use the schematic to find the connecting elements, and disconnect them one by one. The easiest way to do this is by unsoldering or temporarily cutting a trace. Also check the CPU address/data lines on the PIAs which are at pins 8,10-12,13-20. If there is a PIA that is miss ALL output signals, the PIA is probably bad, or one of the select signals is missing. The select signals arrive at pins 21-25,35,36 and should be between 2 and 4 volt. These select signals were already checked, and the only reason they are missing at the PIA is usually a bad contact in the socket or a broken trace. Except for pins 23,24 these address signals pass by two gates at U10,U11,U14. Use the schematic to see wich gate are used and replace IC as needed. Now we can assume you have a working board with all basic signals present. Time to go to the second part of the test EPROM: the memory test and driver elements tests.
The Memory Test. If the LED does not restart blinking there is something wrong with the U4 6116 CMOS memory chip. Before replacing the 6116 chip, take a look at the signals at U4. Again we find mostly all the address and data lines pulsing and between 2 and 4 volts with a DMM. Other signals at U4 pins 14,20 are 0 volts, and 0.5 volts at pins 21,23,25. The only signal that is new here is the selection signal at pin 18. If this is missing look at U9 and U10 which drives U4 pin 18. If a signal at the input of the U9/U10 gates is present yet missing at output of U9/U10 (use schematic), replace the chip.
Testing the Switch Matrix. The switch matrix is tested using the basic test mode, where the LED is blinking fast, as the J3/J4/J5 connector pins are directly tied to the PIA pins and the CPU port (only a resistor is used between these two, as security if at anytime a pin should be at ground, so not to damage the chip). To test the switch matrix, restart the test EPROM, and while the LED is blinking fast, measure these connector signals using a DMM (digital multi-meter):
Testing the Score Display Drivers.
Testing the Lamp Driver Transistors.
Furthermore we need another small adapter, which will connect a 2200 ohm resistor between ground and U14 pin 19. The resistor is wired with two mini hooks to connect U14 pin 19 easily to ground.
The LED board is connected at J10, J11, J12 and J13, all programmed lamp connectors. Every time the Test EPROM's driver test is run *all* LEDs of the LED board will light on stay "on" (except of course where the connector key is located):
Note during the basic test *no* LEDs may go "on" (excepted the four mentioned on J10). If only some LEDs go on during basic test that means one of the lamp transistor (2N5060) is probably bad. On the schematic it is easy to find which connector pin (LED) is goes to which 2N5060. Also remember that all lamp transistor are driven by three chips at U15,U16,U17, which can fail too. In case a LED does not light, remove the LED test strip and measure the center leg of the suspect 2n5060 lamp transistor with a logic probe. If the 2N5060 transistor is receiving a pulse at its middle lead, the 2n5060 transistor is bad. If no pulse is seen at the middle leg, check at the output of the driving chip (U15,U16 or U17). Use the schematic to find which chip is controlling which 2n5060. If there is no command coming out the IC replace it, if all outputs at that IC are missing again replace the chip. If there is an output pulse, check the resistor between the 2n5060 and the chip's output pin (as that is the only thing between them). Aside from that, the only thing left is the driving PIA.
Testing Solenoid Connectors
Other Notes: First the LEDs which blink during the basis test will blink all together. Then LEDs that blink during the driver test will blink one after another, giving a "running light" effect. During the test that the LEDs should light, it MUST blink; a steady and solid "on" means the driver transistor is bad. All basic commands come from U14. When you have a LED that will not blink, check first the outputs of U14 pin 1-16. If pulsing, you have a fault at the driver chip (CA3801) or the driver transistor. Follow the command using schematic sheet five.
Extra CPU Board Control Circuit.
Try the CPU board with the Game ROMs. 3d. When Things Don't Work: Replacing the Battery and CPU Board Battery Corrosion.
Remove the Original Battery.
3e. When Things Don't Work: Using the 6803 Keypad for Diagnostics and Adjustments
The "Registers".
A Bad Control Board Battery and Memory. On occasion, a bad battery can cause "corrupt memory", and the game won't work properly. For example, game will boot up, but won't accept credits or start a game. The solution is to replace the battery and to get the game manual first. After the battery is replaced and the manual acquired, power the game on. The first thing to check is the number of credits per game in the adjustments. Press the small push button inside the coin door, next to the volume control. This should put the game into audits and adjustments. Using the manual and the 6803 keypad (Dungeons & Dragons and prior), find the credits-per-play adjustment, and make sure this adjustment is set to a valid number! If this is not done, the game will probably not accept credits, and won't start play! After the credits-per-play are entered, set all the other game adjustments as desired. Note some games like Eight Ball Champ won't "talk" unless the adjustments are set correctly. For example, on Eight Ball Champ, adjustment 50 should be set to use the Squawk & Talk sound board (value=1), and sounds mode adjustment 27 set (value=3), otherwise the game will not talk. Also check the balls-per-game adjustment (EBC adjustment 23) is set to a valid number of balls (one to five). Match can be turned on and off (EBC adjustment 29 value=1) on these games, and the credit displayed on the game (EBC adjustment 30 value=1) can be turned on and off. All 6803 games also have a "free play" adjustment (EBC adjustment 42), and if this is set to value 65, the game will start without coins.
Starting with Blackwater 100, Bally incorporated a "stuck switch" test at game power on. This was much like Williams had in their System11 games at power on.
The Keypad - Portal to the Adjustments/Diagnostics. The 6803 keypad was an incredibly dumb idea. Bally's reasoning for it was, "It allows the operator to go directly to a function or adjustment, eliminating the tedious procedure of repeatedly press the self-test button to look at a certain adjustment. Of course pressing the self-test button gave the operator time to chat with the local repair expert and learn how he and Ernie always put chewin' gum on the legs to keep the game from slidin'." (No kidding, they really said that in the Eight Ball Champ manual!) With the keypad, just punch in the Register number on the keypad and the information is shown on the score displays (the "register" nomenclature was used on games with 7 digit score displays, prior to Motordome). That's all fine and dandy, but on games with numeric displays, going to some discrete unnamed numbered adjustment directly doesn't really help if the user doesn't have a manual with the list of Register numbers and their meaning. Also the keypad is connected to the game with a .156" Molex connector. Hence the keypad can become disconnected from the game and lost (finding a 6803 keypad for purchase is as rare as hen's teeth). If the keypad is missing, there is effectively no way to enter the diagnostics, audits, or adjustments!
Faking the Keypad (missing Keypad).
Ingo Kramer (germany) created a PDF file of an enhanced schematic for the Bally 6803 keypad here. He also did a layout for the keypad to remake them here.
On all games except Escape from Lost World, Blackwater 100, Truckstop and Atlantis, the keypad should be inside the game near the coin door. The cable is long enough the keypad can easily be used outside of the game. Here are the steps required to use the keypad. As you can see, the procedure is not as easy as it could be (and this is one reason the 6803 system is disliked):
Diagnostic Tests and the Keypad.
Summary of Diagnostic Test Numbers.
Diagnostics in Detail.
3f. When Things Don't Work: Checking Transistors and Coils (stuck on coils and flashlamps).
3g. When Things Don't Work: the Power Supply (Test Points and Repair).
Power Supply Test Points.
Cold/Cracked Solder Joints.
Fuse Board.
Wiring Looms Too Short.
+5 Volts Problems and Fixes. Cap C1 can also be tested with a DMM set to low AC volts. Put the leads of the DMM on each lug of cap C1 with the game powered on. After a moment, the meter reading should stablize and show no more than .25 volts AC. If there is any more than 1/4 volt AC, capacitor C1 is definately bad. Other than the filter cap, diodes D1,D2,D3,D4 (MR751, 100 volt 6 amp) also handle the initial conversion from input AC volts to DC volts. Check diodes D1-D4 with a DMM set to the diode function (.4 to .6 volts in one direction, null reading in the other). If any of these four diodes goes open (null reading in both directions), the +5 volts won't work at all. If any of these four diodes shorts (less than .4 volts), this will blow fuse FU3 (6 amp slow-blow). Diodes D1-D4 can be replaced with any 6A1 style diodes. If cap C1 and diodes D1-D4 are good, yet +5 volts is still bad, next part to check is the voltage regulator U1 (78H05C). This is the large metal transistor with the huge heat sink. Also check capacitors C4,C5 (.1 mfd 20 volts) and C3 (2 mfd 20 volts), as these small caps can go open. There are really no other parts in the +5 volt power section.
High Voltage 190 Volts Problems and Fixes. Also commonly failed high voltage power supply components are resistor R5 (22k ohms 1/2 watt), capacitor C2 (160 mfd 250 volts, but replace with the more common 220 mfd 250 volts), transistor Q1 (2N3584 or NTE384), and the high voltage adjustment pot VR1 (25k 1/4 watt). Also check diodes D5,D6,D7,D8 (1N4004) and D10 (1N5275A) with a DMM set to the diode function (.4 to .6 volts in one direction, null reading in the other). If the entire high voltage section is suspect and needs to be rebuilt, replace all of these parts:
Increase Score Display Life: Adjust 190 volts to 170 Volts.
Solenoid 43 Volts.
3h. When Things Don't Work: Lamp Drivers.
Bally used a very unique system for the CPU controlled feature lights, which they call "switched illumination". Instead of lamp matrix like say Williams used, they used individual 2n5060 (or T106) SCR (silicone controlled rectifiers) to driver the CPU controlled feature lights. This had a processor advantage over Williams... Williams needed 18 volts DC, and duty cycled the lamp matrix down to 6 volts. This required constant processing, and stressed the 6800/6802, limiting the the other stuff the processor could do. Bally on the other hand, used SCRs to control the lamps. This meant the processor just said, once, "turn on that lamp", and it was done. Since there's no lamp matrix, and the CPU controlled lamps worked at 6 volts, there was far less processing ("baby sitting") of the feature lamps required. This meant the 6803 processor could do other things instead. This gave Bally more flexibility in their game code and also more power, since the processor didn't have to baby sit a lamp matrix. The downside to the Bally system is that a single SCR was used to control one lamp and more wiring was needed... Well kind of! That statement would be true for the prior -35 board system. But Bally did something really cool. Instead of using 6 volts DC for the CPU controlled lamps (like on their prior -35 system), they used 20 volts AC and a center tap transformer. Why would they do this? Because now they could use the "zero cross" and use one 2n5060 SCR to drive two completely different lamps. Basically they needed half the number of SCRs to control the same number of feature lamps. If you look at an AC voltage wave form, it's a sine wave. That is, 60 times a second (60 cycles), the AC (alternating current) goes from +20 volts, to zero volts, to -20 volts, and so on. And in the process, it "crosses zero volts", hence the term "zero crossing". Now look at the power supply board, notice fuses FU4 and FU5. These are the two 11 volt AC fuses for the CPU controlled feature lights. Since they come off a center tap transformer, if you measure their voltage relative to ground, it shows about 11 volts AC. If you measure their voltage realitive to each other (fuses FU4 and FU5), you get about 20 volts AC. The center tap transformer allows you to measure these AC voltages relative to ground (which you usually can't do with AC voltage). This is important because they use the zero cross, and one SCR to control two completely different feature lamps. Bally calls this "Phase A" and "Phase B". What it means is, they split the AC power into two phases, and one SCR can control a lamp during "phase A", and a different lamp during "phase B". The phases are basically the AC signal either above or below zero voltage. Note that the phase A power wire is red, and the phase B power wire is Black. That's why if you look at the manual for any of the 6803 games, you'll notice a single SCR 2n5060 controlling two completely different lamps. The connector pinout to the different lamps is actually the same (both lamps go to the same CPU board SCR and can share the same connector, though there is some redundance on feature lamp connectors on the CPU board.) What is different between the two lamps is the "hot" side - that is one lamp is powered by "phase A" (red wire fuse FU4), and the other is powered by "phase B" (black wire fuse FU5). That's why the 6803 is so picky about these two fuses working at game bootup (most game's flash codes check for voltage coming through fuses FU4 and FU5, and will halt bootup if one or both fuses is bad.) If you're used to working on the prior -35 Bally system, you'll remember that CPU controlled feature lights do not use diodes (like say Williams and their lamp matrix.) But because of the zero cross functionality on the 6803 system, now all CPU controlled feature lights do use a 1n4004 diode. This prevents back feed of voltage, allowing the zero cross to work. If a diode does short (doesn't happen often), it will effect both lamps controlled by the single SCR in question. Just keep that in mind. Remember how we talked about 2n5060 being the SCR of choice on the 6803 system? Well they also have the larger T106 SCRs too. These are generally not used for feature lights (in almost all cases), but are instead used exclussively for the "bright lights" (the flash lamps.) The bright lights use eight T106 SCRs for a total of 16 individual flash lamps. On the other hand there are 35 smaller 2n5060 SCRs (plus two T106 SCRs) used to control a total of 37*2=74 potential feature lamps. Two T106 large SCRs are dedicated to CPU controlled feature lamps (opposed to bright lights.) This was done in case two 555 lights bulbs were needed for a single feature lamp designation (say a playfield and backbox "shoot again" light.) Also note that Bally used exclussively #555 lamps for the general illumination and CPU controlled feature lights. There are no #44/47 style lamp sockets in the 6803 games (unless someone changed a lamp socket to that type.)
LED bulbs in a 6803 game.
Stressed Lamp Connectors from Lowering and Raising the Backbox.
The last point is the most ugly, as a wire and its connector pins can look intact, but in fact be broken inside the insulation. The only way to test for this is to use a DMM's continuity check from the playfield lamp to the CPU connector J10 to J13 in question. This problem will raise its ugly head when certain CPU controlled lamps do not work.
One very common problem with the 6803 lamp system is shorting a lamp to the high voltage solenoid power. This unfortunately is way easy to do, thanks to the position of some of the lamp sockets in relation to the coils (note the picture below).
Obviously the blown SCR will need to be replaced.
3i. When Things Don't Work: Bright Lamps (flash lamps). Bally used a very unique system for powering the bright lights (aka "flash lamps"). Eight T106 large SCRs control a total of 16 bright lamps. This was different than say Williams, where a TIP transistor (also used for coil drivers) was needed to drive a flash lamp. The Bally 6803 system of flash lamps was much more efficient, as all the TIP driver transistor can be used for high voltage coils (opposed to 12 volt flash lamps.) Bally again did something really cool with bright lights. Instead of using 12 volts DC for the bright lights, they used 20 volts AC and a center tap transformer. Why would they do this? Because now they could use the "zero cross" and use one T106 SCR to drive two completely different bright lamps. Basically they needed half the number of SCRs to control the same number of bright flash lamps. If you look at an AC voltage wave form, it's a sine wave. That is, 60 times a second (60 cycles), the AC (alternating current) goes from +20 volts, to zero volts, to -20 volts, and so on. And in the process, it "crosses zero volts", hence the term "zero crossing". If you look at the power supply board, notice fuses FU4 and FU5. These are the two 11 volt AC fuses for the CPU controlled feature and bright lights. Since they come off a center tap transformer, if you measure their voltage relative to ground, it shows about 11 volts AC. If you measure their voltage realitive to each other (fuses FU4 and FU5), you get about 20 volts AC. The center tap transformer allows you to measure these AC voltages relative to ground (which you usually can't do with AC voltage). This is important because they use the zero cross, and one T106 SCR can control two completely different bright lights. Bally calls this "Phase C" and "Phase D" for the bright lights (opposed to phase A and B for the feature lights). What it means is, they split the AC power into two phases, and one SCR can control a bright light during "phase C", and a different bright light during "phase D". The phases are basically the AC signal either above or below zero voltage. Note that the phase C power wire is black/red, and the phase D power wire is black/blue. That why if you look at the manual for any of the 6803 games, you'll notice a single T106 SCR controlling two completely different bright lights. The connector pinout to the different lamps is actually the same (both bright lights go to the same CPU board SCR and can share the same connector, though there is some redundance on lamp connectors on the CPU board.) What is different between the two lamps is the "hot" side - that is one lamp is powered by "phase C" (black/red wire fuse FU4), and the other is powered by "phase D" (black/blue wire fuse FU5). That's why the 6803 is so picky about these two fuses working at game bootup (most game's flash codes check for voltage coming through fuses FU4 and FU5, and will halt bootup if one or both fuses is bad.) Because of the zero cross functionality on the 6803 system, all bright lights do use a 1n4004 diode. This prevents back feed of voltage, allowing the zero cross to work. If a diode does short (doesn't happen too often), it will effect both bright lights controlled by the single SCR in question. Just keep that in mind. Remember the large T106 SCRs are used exclussively for the "bright lights" (the flash lamps.) The bright lights use eight T106 SCRs for a total of 16 individual flash lamps.
Testing Bright Lights.
The 912 Flash Bulb.
LEDs for the Bright Lights.
3j. When Things Don't Work: the Switch Matrix. Bally used a standard switch matrix, just like their -35 system utilized. That means there's 8 switch rows (i0 to i7) and six switch columns (st0 to st5). This game 6803 games a total of 48 switches (less than Williams and their 8x8 switch matrix.) Note most 6803 games don't use the last switch column (ST-5), so most games only use 40 switches. All switches use a 1n4148 diode for isolation. Some switches use a .05 mfd 25 volt capacitor between the banded diode switch lug and the row connection. This was done (like on the -35 games) to increase the switch closure time, so that the CPU scanning would not miss any switch closures. The capacitor is only used on some switches (check the schematics). Mostly stand up and rollover style switches use a capacitor (switches that get a real quick switch closure during game play.)
Stuck Switches.
The flipper lane change switch is mounted on the same switch stack as the high voltage tungston flipper coil switch. These two switches are only by two pieces of insulating "fish paper". If the high voltage flipper coil switch shorts to the flipper lane change switch, this will send high voltage down the switch matrix, frying components on the CPU board. So always check this switch and the fish paper to make sure the insulator is in good condition.
Depending on the game, some switch matrix "strobes" (columns) are not used. This is fine, but the CPU board may not be jumpered to use the a particular column. This can be an issue if the CPU board is moved from a game not using strobe 5, to a game that does use ST5. For example, Bob E. describes this exact problem in his Blackwater 100. After buying the game, none of the switches worked in strobe (column) five. The problem was fixed by installing CPU board jumper JW9 and removing jumper JW8. The Blackwater 100 manual generically listed these CPU board jumpers: In = JW2, JW4, JW6, JW9, JW10, Out = JW1, JW3, JW5, JW7, JW8, JW11. Clive explains that the Wn jumpers connect the PBnn strobe to the anode of the strobe line blocking diode. This anode is also tied to +5v to provide the drive current for the switch matrix line. Leaving the jumper out isolates the diode (and strobe line in it's entirety) from the PIA but leaves current drive to the matrix enabled via the pull-up. Bally generally left the W9 jumper in even though there were no switches on that line in some games (Escape from the Lost World being a prime example). Removing the resistor has no affect if W9 is out since the circuit is totally isolated. If strobe 5 is required to drive some switches then the resistor jumper needs to be in to provide enough drive current (the port cannot supply enough current needed and it will strain the PIA output drive possibly causing it to fail).
3k. When Things Don't Work: Ball Trough Infrared Optic Switches. Starting with Dungeons & Dragons and Blackwater 100, Bally used opto switches in the ball trough instead of mechanical switches. Flaky optos in this style of ball trough are very common. The game won't start if all the balls needed can not be accounted for, so the ball trough optos are very important. Also sometimes the game will start, but two or even three balls will stack up in the shooter lane at the start or during game play. Bad solder joints and bad 68 ohm resistors on the trough boards are very common. Reflow the solder joints on these boards is a good idea, and check the resistors for 68 ohms.
Replacement Optos and Opto Installation Warning.
If just one opto is needed, the first opto in each board can be robbed, as it only uses the last three of the four optos. But watch out, they numbered these optos backwards to what one may think! The #1 opto is the one that is not used, and #4 is the one closest to the plunger (for ball #1).
Before replacing optos and emitters, check for flaky solder-job on the 68 ohm resistors on the board. I think I may experiment with putting some rubber grommets under the mounts or something, to try and counter the vibrations and shocks they may be experiencing. Dave Wagler has said that he has had good luck putting a dab of RTV silicone behind the optos when mounting to the boards. Also, Tuuka suggests that the lights from the "R-A-I-N" targets can confuse the optos, so put some cardboard or duct tape over the metal trough walls to obscure them from the lights. Also Instead of reflowing solder, suck the old solder off, cleaned up the pads (single-sided boards...no plated-through holes) and resoldered.
Test the Optics.
After that is done, block the LED transmitters with some black electrical tape. Then shine a small pocket flashlight into each of the receiver board detector optos. They should register in the switch test (room needs to be somewhat dim for this; ambient room light can also activate these).
Replacement for the MLED930.
Another LED test method.
3L. When Things Don't Work: Score Displays. Displays: show garbage every once in a while. Pulling the connectors off the back of the displays and pushing them in a few times always cleared that one.
3m. When Things Don't Work: Problems with Flippers.
Flipper Coil.
Double EOS Switches. The benefit to the system is that there is only one cabinet flipper switch for both the upper and lower flippers. And the upper flipper isn't in the power stroke phase until *after* the lower flipper coil's initial power phase is off. This saves current draw and perhaps a noticeable voltage drop at the transformer.
3n. When Things Don't Work: Sound Problems.
DAC 7533 Failures on Sound Boards.
And this applies to the following Bally 6803 pinball games: Here's the original service bulletin from Bally in PDF format.
Squawk and Talk Sound Board.
6809 Sound Board LED Tests.
Sounds Deluxe 68000 Board LED Tests.
First Flicker.
First Flash.
Second Flash.
Third Flash.
Fourth Flash.
Fifth Flash.
System11 Sound board used on Truck Stop/Atlantis. One thing that was changed on these two games was the sound board. Instead of using a Bally sound board, a standard Williams system11 sound board was incorporated into the Bally 6803 system. Note these two games boot with the familiar Williams "bong" sound (unlike earlier Bally 6803 games.) This is because of the system11 sound board. In order to make the system11 sound board mate with the Bally 6803 system, a small interface board was used. Basically it took the sound signals from the Bally 6803 MPU board, modified them a touch, and outputed them through a ribbon cable to the Williams system11 sound board.
The sound interface board used on Truck Stop and Atlantis to
allow the Bally 6803 MPU board to talk to a Williams system11 sound board.
If you would like to test this theory, you can actually plug in the "high impact" sound board in a Bally 6803 game (complete with the high impact ROM files), and hear the boot up Williams "bong". 3o. When Things Don't Work: Game Specific & Miscellaneous Repair Tips. Problem: I have a Dungeons & Dragons/Blackwater 100, and when the start button is pushed it displays, "ball missing", yet there are three balls installed in the game. Or sometimes the game will start, but two or even three balls will stack up in the shooter lane at the start or during game play. Answer: This is a known problem on Dungeons & Dragons and Blackwater 100. What happens, is that the opto detectors in ball trough get extra light from the Blackwater RAIN feature lights, and then think the ball isn't there even though it is, giving the "ball missing" error. To fix, remove bottom arch plate, and cover the ball trough with black cardboard or something else non transparent. Secure with tape. Also verify, using the game's switch test, that all the trough opto receiver switches are working. And when replacing these optos, put a dap of silicon behind the opto receiver and/or transmitter, and mount the opto off the board just slightly. This will prevent vibration from breaking the opto in the future. Problem: I have a Blackwater 100 and I've been trying to change the game to the 3-ball version (the game can play either 1 ball or 3 balls at game start; there are two different ROM software sets for BW100.) However the two sets of ROMs both produce the same problem: the machine kicks out four balls at game start instead of three, then never starts play. The machine and all the switches work fine, as it plays fine with the one ball ROMs, and all switches test fine in diagnostics. I've even taken the trough opto boards out and tested them, and everything is in order. What is the problem? Answer: Running the switch test often shows the trough and other switches as working 99% of the time, but once in game is started the machine acts up 99% of the time. The best fix is to get the GLM repro trough opto boards, as this solves these problems (a href='http://www.greatlakesmodular.com/products/pinball/6803tbs.html'>GLM boards.) Bally really messed things up with the trough on this game, and it's rather confusing to work with. Even though it's only a three ball game, four balls are required in the trough. Usually the trough is numbered from right to left on 6803 games, but on BW100 it's a bit different. Starting from the right, the first ball doesn't have a switch. Then the next ball is ball #3 in the switch test, but opto #4 on the PCB. The next ball is ball #2 in the switch test, but opto #3 on the PCB. The last ball is ball #1 in the switch test, and opto #2 on the PCB. Finally there is a last opto #1 on the board that is not blocked by any of the balls in the trough, and is unused. So why does the game work for one ball play and not three ball play? What happens is that for three ball play, the game puts three balls in the starting gate at the top of the playfield, and leave one ball in the trough. That one ball that's left in the trough doesn't have a switch. If ANY of the other three trough optos show a momentary closure (due to flakey optos), the game thinks there are two balls still in the trough, and automatically kicks out the fourth ball. During one ball play there is only one ball in the shooter lane, so as long as opto #2 (the left most ball in the trough switch #1) is acting fine, then the game will act normally for one ball play. So if the game works in one ball play but not for three ball, this is a symptom that opto pair #3 or #4 is bad or intermittent. A trick is, since opto #1 is unused, try swapping opto #1 with either #3 or #4 to see if that fixes the switch issue.
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4a. Finishing Up: Rebuilding/Improving the Flippers Note that the flipper coils on many of the 6803 games are different than the ones used on -35 games. If a 6803 game has any ramps, good chance it uses A24-570/34-3600 flipper coils (which is stronger than the -35 flipper coil A25-500/34-4500). Notice on the 6803 style flipper coil A24-570/34-3600 both the power and hold sides of the flipper coil are stronger than the -35 style A25-500/34-4500. There's good reason for this. So that stock of -35 flipper coils you have sitting in your tool box probably won't be that helpful for 6803 games.
Linear flippers.
Relatively speaking, this is a pretty easy and inexpensive conversion. A lot of people like the "feel" of old school pre-1981 flippers opposed to linear flippers. Personally I don't see the big difference (all things equal, like amount of flipper part wear.)
Truck Stop and Atlantis Williams Flippers.
The flippers on a Bally Atlantis (last 6803 game). Notice the combination of Bally
coils (center post, slingshots) with Williams flipper assemblies and Williams flipper coils.
Notice less Bally parts are used on the last 6803 game, and more Williams parts. For
example, the ball trough assembly here is definately Williams. Where on the above
pictures Truck Stop, the ball trough assembly is definately a Bally assembly.
Bottom board of a Bally 6803 Atlantis. Notice the use of a
only a Williams system11 transformer (no Bally 6803 transformer). And again,
notice the Williams style speaker!
Backbox of the Bally Altantis (last 6803 game). Notice the 50 volt Williams flipper board
(upper right), and the small sound board interface board (top center),
and a system11 sound board. Game now uses a standard Williams book style insert panel
to illuminate the backglass (no 120 volt bulb socket and no solidstate relay to control that.)
The 50 volt flipper board used on Truck Stop and Atlantis. This was
done because these two games used 50 volts (instead of 43 volts) for
the flippers, and also used Williams flipper assemblies.
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