from 1978 to 1987. by cfh@provide.net (Clay), 09/01/24 Copyright 2017-2024, all rights reserved.
Scope.
IMPORTANT: Before Starting! If you aren't up to repairing pinball circuit boards yourself or need pinball parts or just want to buy a restored game, I recommend seeing the suggested parts & repair sources web page. NOTE WORK IN PROGRESS. Will add more info as time permits. Table of Contents
2. Before Turning On the Game: 3. When Things Don't Work:
Bibliography and Credit Where Credit is Due.
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1a. Getting Started: Experience, Schematics, Manuals.
What Repair Experience Is Expected? If I would do similarities, Zaccaria games most closely ressemble Bally -35 games. And frankly, it's not a very close match! I would say it's like a distance relative at best. But if you've had some experience with Bally -35 games, that would be most helpful in repairing Zaccaria pinballs.
Schematics and Manuals. Many Zaccaria schematics and manuals are available online. These are all in PDF format, which means Adobe Acrobat is needed to view them. Most of them are from www.zaccaria-pinball.com or www.ibdb.org but also check out our Zaccaria manual resource.
Zaccaria Documentation.
Gen2 Zaccaria Others
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1b. Getting Started: Necessary Tools Fixing electronic pinball games will require a few tools. Luckily, most are not that specialized and are easy to get. Please see http://www.pinrepair.com/begin for details on the basic electronics tools needed. Non-Specialized Tools Required:
Specialized Tools Required:
Cleaning "Tools" Required:
1c. Getting Started: Parts to Have On-Hand When fixing electronic pinballs, I would highly recommend having some parts on-hand to make things easier and cheaper. All these parts are available from a pinball retailer. Fuses: I would have five of any needed value on hand at all times.
Bridge Rectifiers: keep a few 35 amp, 200 volt (or higher) bridge
rectifiers around. Both styles (wire and/or lug leads.) Chips:
.156" Connector pins, header pins, and plastic housings. Used on Gen2 boards. Note that Gen1 boards use a different connector that is not available. I usually convert those to .156" connectors where possible. See the connector section for more details. .100" Connector pins, header pins, and plastic housings. Get the crimp-on variety for the MPU and solenoid driver board. See the connector section for more details. .100" Gen1 Connectors. These are used for the lamp drivers and switch matrix on the CPU and driver boards. They are unique in that they're reversed to normal .100" pins (the male side is on the harness, and the female side on the board, that is the "male" has the pointy bits that stick out.) Molex 538-50-57-9020 plug bodies (20 pin) and Molex 538-16-02-0114 pins, available from Mouser.com Fuse Clips. You will need a boat load of these for both Gen1 and Gen2 Zaccaria games! Every power supply fuse clip will need to be replaced. Note the Euro sized fuse clips are no longer available. Just get the standard USA 3AG Tin plated beryllium copper style (1A1907-03) for GI and CPU light circuits. The lower current style (tin plated brass) 1A1907-06 work well on circuits less than 10 amps. Mouser sells a decent replacements part number 534-3513 (plated brass). Note the power supply board will have to be drilled to use these. More details about this in the power supply section of this document. CPU Board. It's hard to believe, but you can actually buy a new Gen2 Zaccaria CPU board from pinballsoutions.eu Switch Tester. The same company that puts out the new Zac CPU board also has a nifty switch tester. 1d. Getting Started: Game List These are the games covered in this repair document (though more stress is put on the Generation2 games.)
Generation1 solid state Zaccaria
Generation2 solid state Zaccaria
Note Mystic Star is not included in this list. Mystic Star is a Bally -35
conversion game, and uses Bally boards. Hence it is not covered in this document.
Essentialy there are three or four boards in any Zaccaria pinball
game: power supply, CPU board, driver board (or "interface" board
as Zaccaria calls it), and sound board (on games Shooting the Rapids
4/79 and later.) There's also a transformer in the bottom of the
game, which provides raw AC voltages to the power supply (when
then converts them to DC voltage, and regulates some of the voltages.)
You will hear a lot in this document discussions of "generation1" and
"generation2" games and/or boards. What this refers to is the
progressive change in the Zaccaria pinball boards, as time marched on. The
biggest change in the two systems was ROM space (or lack of
it on gen1 CPU boards.) Gen1, at it's end (Locomotion), could
support three 2716 EPROMs and two 2708 EPROMs. That's about
7000 bytes of programming space (not much frankly.) With
the gen2 CPU board, this changed to two 2764 EPROMs for a
total of 16000 bytes (more than double the gen1 CPU board.)
This allowed more programming and more features, that went
along with greater programming.
In addition, all gen1 games used 6 digit score displays.
With gen2, they moved to 7 digit and 8 digit displays.
Also the sound boards really evolved to have
some pretty awesome digital sound. On gen1 games the
most involved sound was on Locomotion, which was a
clone of Williams Firepower style sound (with no speech
and no background sound.) With Gen2 games, the sound
boards became a lot more sophisticated, with most
games have some pretty involved speech (with ROMs
available in multiple languages like Italian, French,
German and English.)
Power Supply Board.
In the upper right section of the power supply is the high voltage
for the score displays. In the lower right section are the input
fuses. Usually the fuse holders are junk on these, and should
be replaced. As a rule I replace all of them. New fuse holders
(in the style of Dataeast) have a slightly different foootprint,
and you end up drilling a new hole to make them fit (see the
power supply section of this document for more info on that.)
The power supply CN1 connector (lower right) is problematic.
This is the raw transformer voltage plug that inputs power
to the power supply board.
On CN1 the four pins on the left of this connector, Green and White
wires, which bring the raw voltage from the transformer for the
CPU controlled lights, really likes to burn. For this reason you
will often see this connector replaced, or wires soldered directly
to the back of the board. Note there are no General Illumination
fuses on the power supply board.
The power supply fuses are designated as such, and ordered left to right:
CPU Board.
Gen1 CPU board for Zaccaria Space Shuttle.
Locotion factory jumper mod for a 2716 EPROM from U11 pin6
to the top of jumper pad J2. Also the trace on the componenet
side going to U11 pin6 is cut.
Driver Board.
Gen1 driver board. Note the .100" old style connectors and
the green .156" connector.
Gen1 driver board. Notice the screening for the lamp drivers (2n5060)
is done incorrectly compared to how the SCRs are actually installed. Oops!
Gen1 Connectors.
MPU board .100" connectors. Notice the non-standard reverse
pin orientation, where the male section is the removeable part.
Power supply Gen1 connectors, top .100 and bottom .156".
Gen2 Connectors.
Power supply Gen2 connectors .156" style. Notice the use
of flipper relays on the power supply.
The green Gen1 .156" connectors (as used say at the MPU board at CN7)
are pretty impossible to find. Fortunately there is an answer. You can
use standard .156" Molex style connectors. On the female side, it's
really easy - the new female Molex .156 standard housing fits right
over the Zaccaria Gen1 male pins. Just make sure you use Trifurcon
Molex .156 pins!
MPU supply Gen1 connectors .156" style. This was replaced
with a standard Molex female .156 connector housing with
trifurcon pins. This works well since the original female
(or male!) connectors are not available.
On the male side, the original green right angled .156 Zaccaria
Gen1 connector pins can be replaced with Molex .156 male pins.
But this replacement is not easy. I don't suggest doing this
unless there's no choice... The Molex pins are more square
than the original rectangle Zac .156 pins. So they don't fit into the
original board holes unless forced into place. It's not the
worst thing in the world... it does work... but if possible
avoid replacing the male Zac .156 pins with Moles male pins,
unless absolutely needed.
Will report back with Zaccaria coil resistances here...
Add info on using a CR2032 lithium coin battery on the Zaccaria MPU board...
Transformer Assembly.
But the big change with Gen2 transformers is the ease of
input line voltage change. If you want the game to run at 115 volts
instead of 220 volts, there's a plug on the front of the transformer
assembly that allows this is just a few seconds. Unscrew the plug,
turn it to 115 volts (or whatever you need), re-insert and screw
back in place. No tools needed.
Now be aware that the voltage selection plug also have a GMA 20mm European
fuse inside. Actually there's two fuses on the transformer assembly...
There's an American style 3ag (1.25") screw-in fuse on the back side of
the transformer assembly. And of course the
mentioned GMA 20mm European fuse on the input voltage selection plug. Obviously
if either fuse is blown, the game will be "dead". So keep that in mind.
Additionally sometimes the voltage plug goes missing. This is a major
bummer, as it makes the game completely dead. Unfortunately finding a
replacement plug is near impossible. But there is a way around this.
Take the top metal cover off the transformer assembly
and look at the voltage selection plug's female side,
you can adapt a 3AG American sized fuse into
the transformer assembly. I've done this before where the voltage selection
plug is missing. In the case of 115 volts, cut the Violet wire at the voltage
plug, and then cut the Blue center wire. Lengthen and route these wires
outside the transformer assembly to a new 3ag fuse holder. Now the game
is set to 115 volts, and the fuse is easily accessible. It's a hack,
but there's not much else you can do if the voltage selection plug is missing.
Back side of a removed Zaccaria Gen2 transformer assembly.
Front side of a removed Zaccaria Gen2 transformer assembly, showing the
voltage selecton plug and it's internal GMA 20mm fuse.
If the voltage selection plug is missing, you can hack in
a standard 3ag fuse holder by cutting the violet and blue center
wire (for 115v), lengthen, and attach to a remote 3ag fuse holder. I drill
a hold through the transformer metal frame housing and mount the new 3ag fuse
holder outside, allowing easy access and visibility to the fuse.
Power Supply Board.
Gen1 power supply with a changed CN1 connector.
Gen2 power supply.
Other changes from Gen1 to Gen2 include the addition of the flipper
relay on gen2 power supplies. In Gen1 games, the flipper relay
(which turns "on" the flippers when a game is started, completing
the path to ground) is a descrete device, and mounted under the playfield.
Also gen1 power supplies provide -5 volts to the CPU board for
the games that use CPU EPROMs that need -5 volts.
Though gen2 power supplies do create -5 volts, it is *not* directed
to the CPU board (there's no need for it, due to the change to
EPROMs that don't require -5 volts.) Instead the -5 volts on
gen2 games goes to the sound board.
Lastly the GI (general illumination) or "Fixed Lamps" (as Zaccaria calls them)
is handled differently on gen1 and gen2 games. On gen1 games, the GI fuse is mounted on
the power supply. On gen2 games, there is *no* GI fuse on the
power supply (it's mounted in the back box.)
Also gen2 power supplies have a "power fail" circuit. Gen1 power supplies do
not have this.
For the gen1 green .156" connectors, apparently
there is no compatible replacement available today.
This is unfortunate, as the large connector CN1 at the
bottom of the gen1 power supply likes to burn.
These green connectors were made by Amp,
and can't find any sort of compatible replacement.
The only solution is to replace the male green gen1 connector pins
with standard .156" male pins and use a corresponding female .156 connector,
with Trifurcon pins. Note to do this, the holes will have to be drilled
for the male connector pins using a 1/16" drill bit (this is not a big
deal as the power supply board is single sided, so there's no plated through
holes to ruin.)
Top: the .100" style connectors used on Gen1 Zaccaria games.
On gen1 lamp and switch matrix connections, the .100" connectors used
are not available. Again not been able to locate a compatible replacement connector.
Fortunately these connectors are usually in decent condition,
unless butchered by somebody.
Power Supply Fuse Clips.
Gen2 Fuse block. These fuse clips have been replaced with modern 3AG
clips which are available today. Notice the fuse clips on the right,
and the two new holes drilled to accomodate the new 3AG clips. (The
unused two holes were from the original Zac style fuse clips.)
Gen2 Fuse block. Here the larger holes were drilled out so new
modern 3AG fuse clips could be fitted. The blue arrows indicated new
holes for the US sized fuse clips... Also notice P4 bridge
rectifier for the HV section at the top of the picture. Kind of weird
how the "+" on the bridge is directly opposite the "+" on the
board (red arrows.) That's how it is with this bridge and for the
small P1 bridge too!
Power Supply Bridge Rectifiers.
On gen2 the small round P1 and P4 bridges are for the high voltage and -5 volt sections, respectively.
This is unlike saw Bally power supplies where the HV is four discrete 1n4004 diodes. Notice
how the "+" on these two bridges is opposite the "+" marked on the board!
In addition, the -5 volt bridge (P4) goes to a 7905 (RG2) to develop
the -5 volts for the sound card.
Below is a picture of what the bridges are used for.
Gen1 and Gen2 bridges.
Below is a table of the bridges used. Note these can all be replaced with
25 amp 200 volt (or higher) wire or lug style bridges, mouser part number 583-MP254.
Note on the smaller P1 and P4 bridge, these larger mouser style bridges will not
physically fit.
Power Supply Input Voltages.
Power Supply High Voltage.
On gen1 power supplies there's also an adjustment pot (10k)
just below the 2n3584/TIP49 to dial in the voltage. This pot is
on the last portion of the HV circuit between the 170v output and
ground. On gen2 they just changed the 82k (gen1 R5) resistor to 100k (gen2 R10).
If you wanted to add an HV adjustment pot to a gen2 power supply you could.
It would involve changing R10 from 100k to 82k, and adding a 10k pot
between R8 and R10. Another way to adjust the HV on a gen2 power supply
without a pot is to just change R10 from 100k to say 90k.
Besides these three HV transistors (2n3584/TIP49 and 2n3440) that like to fail (in particular
the 2n3440 at TR3), there's resistor issues on these power supplies.
And on gen2 power supplies the R6 resistor 47ohms is *always* a problem.
Frankly I've never seen a gen2 power supply that did not have this resistor replaced!
This 47ohm 3watt resistor and it's always cooked.
Since it's an inline resistor, when it goes bad, the HV circuit dies.
So it's best to replace this with a 5watt resistor. You can even bump it
up to 50ohms or even 75ohms.
Always check the gen2 R3 resistor 22k ohm or R2 (gen1), because this is often a problem.
Also the gen2 R7 resistor 1k ohm or R6 (gen1) is a problem.
Other resistors to check on gen2 power supplies include R8 (10k ohm)
and R10 (100k ohm) and R9 (4.7k ohm). In addition might as well check
R1 (100k ohm) and R4 (100 ohm) and R11 (1k ohm.)
TIP49 used for high voltage (gen1 power supply here, but used on
both gen1 and gen2 games).
2n3584 used for high voltage on either gen1 or gen2 power supplies.
Other things to look at are the DZ1 and DZ2 zener diodes. These are
70v-79v diodes 1/2watt that work together. Like the 140v zener diode
on a Bally HV power supply. But instead there's two here. These can
be replaced with 1n4760 diodes (68v at 1watt) or 1n4761 diodes (75v at 1watt.)
Unlike Bally HV power supplies, on gen2 power supplies there's an SCR1 which is a 2n6564.
This is a 400v SCR which is often replaced with an NTE5405 diode or a 2n5064 SCR.
Remember the 2n5064 is often used on Bally lamp driver boards.
Gen1 General Illumination Lighting and Processor Reset.
Testing the Power Supply.
Gen2 Power Fail White Wire (Power Supply CN5 pin6).
What you are really doing is avoiding the power supply's "power fail" circuit
when you cut the power supply CN5 pin6 white wire. The power fail section is
only used on Zaccarias gen2 power supply boards. This circuit checks
that correct voltage is supplied to the CPU board before the CPU boots up.
This is done through IC1 (LM339) and transistors TR4/TR5 (BC337) and TR6 (BC323),
and the capacitor C9 (1mfd.)
It is not uncommon for this power supply circuit to fail, and hence the game
won't boot (even though the power supply is otherwise good.) Again this is why
many people just cut the white CN5 pin6 wire, and call it a day.
But in reality the most common failure point is cap C9 (1mfd, ground lead closest to bridge rectifier.)
It likes to dry out and cause the power failure circuit to "fail." This happens because the
C9 cap is mounted right under the big heat sink, and the cap dries out.
In addition, transistor TR6 (BC323)
likes to fail too, as it is a 5amp NPN transistor, and hence it handles a bit of
current, thus it's death often occurs.
Note it is common to see TR6 replaced with a BC337 transistor. This is
probably bad behavior, since the TR6 handles some current. Just keep this in mind.
Initial Game Power Up.
Zaccaria games like to have a valid battery on the MPU board. The original battery
was a re-chargeable type, much like used on Bally -17 and -35 games. These obviously
leak and can damage the MPU board (that's why we have a section on this repair above.)
But after you have the original battery removed and the corrosion (if any) dealt with,
what is the best substitute? Personally I like the CR2032 lithium coin battery approach.
Some people like memory caps, but my games aren't on often enough to keep that cap charged.
And re-programming a Gen1 game sucks, so to me, the memory cap idea is not good.
Since the original battery was a rechargeable type, you have to use a blocking
diode (to prevent charging) if you go with a CR2032 lithium. Not a big deal,
but just remember to do that! Don't try and charge a non-chargeable battery.
Only bad things can happen if you do that!
Back side: Gen1 Shoot the Rapids board with an added Lithium cr2032 coin battery.
Here a trace is cut, and an 1n4148 diode added as a blocking diode. This prevents
the lithium battery from being charged.
Front side: Gen1 Shoot the Rapids board with an added Lithium cr2032 coin battery.
Gen2 CPU board with CR2032 battery and 1n914 blocking diode. Note blue arrow shows trace cut under added diode.
Adding a Gen1 MPU Five Volt Indicator LED.
The gen1 Zaccaria MPU board is a strange animal. You *must*
run a battery for the 5-7 board position 5101 RAM chip. Why is this?
Because the game simply won't coin up if the memory settings
are not "set". Zac gen2 MPU boards don't have this weirdness, it's
only the Zac gen1 MPU boards that require this initial setup.
And if the battery isn't supplying power to the 5-7 board position
5101 RAM, then these setting will be lost at power off.
The trick is getting a gen1 game into the settings mode.
You would think just pressing the coin door diagnostic button
would do this... but you would be wrong! (This is not like
a Bally -17/-35.) Instead the procedure is as follows to
get a Gen1 game into setting mode.
I should mention that the coin door and start buttons are pretty
sensitive in this setting mode. You have to press them very quickly,
or you will find you'll skip numbers. The setting are a linear
system, meaning you can go backwards! You can only advance the setting
number. To re-adjust a setting number lower than the current number,
you have to start over.
Gen1 Shooting the Rapids in the first adjustment #6 (number of balls=3).
Here's the typical list of Gen1 settings (number 06 to 26 in Match display)
that need to happen to make a game coin up. If you installed a new battery
with the power off, or a new 5101 RAM, these must be reset. If you don't
do this, chances are the game won't coin up and won't start.
Here's typical settings for most (all?) of the Gen1 Zaccaria games.
Use these as a default, and then refer to the manual and tweek them
as needed. (Things that tend to change between games are bonus ball
settings):
Shooting the Rapids adjustment #22 (high score obtained, shown int the high score display).
Zac diagnostics in general are pretty good. Especially the
gen2 diagnostics (with both a "test advance" and "test back" button,
so you can navigate the diagnostics in both direction.)
But the biggest bummer about Zac diagnostics are they are
part of the switch matrix! This is a really bad thing,
and most (all?) other manufacturers avoided doing this.
The reason is simple - if you do "blow up" the switch matrix,
you can still get into the diagnostic program to help
test the system. But with Zac, if the switch matrix
crashes, you're out of luck.
Gen1 Diagnostics.
Gen1 Zac Hot Wheels in test#2 (score display).
Press the coin door diag switch again, and the switch
test will run (test#3).
Gen1 Zac Hot Wheels in test#3 (switches). Switch #16 is the outhole switch.
General Switch Numbers.
Gen1 Zaccaria:
Gen2 Zaccaria:
Switch Matrix Charts.
Gen2 switch matrix charts
Other Switch Matrix charts
Gen2 CPU board
The Gen2 ROMs are located on the CPU board in the upper left corner.
Many Gen2 games use two ROM chips and have one unused socket pad.
Some games (like Pinball Champ) used three ROMs. The jumpers are directly
above the ROM sockets, and are used to select the size of the ROM chips installed.
Ideally it's best to configure ROMs and jumpers to use 2764 EPROMs. This makes
the CPU board most versatile.
Gen2 CPU and Sound board Jumpers, from the Pool Champs manual.
Gen2 ROM Jumpers for 2764 at IC1 and IC2 (usually Farfalla and Devil Riders):
Gen2 ROM Jumpers for 2532 at IC1, IC2, IC3 (usually Soccer Kings, Pinball Champ, Time Machine):
Gen2 ROM Jumpers for 2532 at IC1 and 2764 at IC2 (usually Magic Castle, Robot, Clown, Pool Champion):
Gen2 CPU board set for 2764 EPROMs at IC1 and IC2 (Magic Castle)
Gen2 CPU board set for 2532 EPROMs at IC1, IC2, IC3 (Soccer Kings)
The RAM and CMOS are at IC4 and IC5, directly beneath the battery,
and to the right of the ROM chips. These are the first two things
to be damaged with battery leakage. IC4 is a 6414 (can substitute 5514 or 6514), and
IC5 is a 2114 RAM (can substitute 9114).
The Battery is at the top center of the board. I replace the original battery with a
non-rechargable Lithium cr2032 battery, and a 1n914 blocking diode (to prevent charging the battery.)
Below and to the right of the RAM chips is a large Signetics 2650A CPU chip.
On the left edge of the board is a ribbon connector CN14 for the displays.
The logic chips and components to the right of this connector are the display memory and controls.
At the bottom of the CPU board is ribbon connector CN12 to the Driver board.
The ribbon cable connector CN8 on the right edge goest to the Sound board.
The logic chips and components to the left of this connector drive the sound board.
* Note it is common to see the white "power good" wire cut. This circuit
on the power supply board if often failed, and it will stop the CPU board
from booting. As a short cut, often operators will just cut the white wire
to get the game running. It's not suggested behavior, but it's common to see.
The best approach is to repair the power supply board (there's an LM339 chip
in this circuit), as the "power good" line was designed in the circuit to
prevent problems.
The connector CN10 is the Switch Matrix columns, right side of the CPU board beneath the power plug.
Likewise connector CN11 is the (Switch Matrix row.
The DIP switches are used to enter setup mode and set the default pricing and operator settings,
when the CMOS RAM settings are detected to be invalid (dead battery.) This feature seems
only to be intended to allow the game to still make money on location, even if the settings
are not correct. Normally all four switches should be set to "off".
Note SW4 is used to enter setup mode; switches 1,2,3 all set the country-specific default pricing scheme.
Gen1 games in chronological order...
Gen1 MPU Board Revisions.
The next MPU board is 1B1110/0. It uses four 2708 EPROMs and one 2716 EPROM at IC1.
This board is used on three games (Hot Wheels, Fire Mountain, Star God.)
The increased ROM space (2716) at IC1 was required for these three games.
As part of the changes to support a larger ROM (2716) at IC1, and
to make the board backward compatible with the earlier 1B1110, jumpers J17 and J18 were added.
Jumpers J17/J18 control where in the address space ROM2 appears by changing its Chip Select
from IC11 out line 1 to IC11 out line 7. The other change to 1B1110/0 is a "clear CMOS RAM" feature.
This allows the game to ignore and clear the contents of the 5101 RAM (the battery backup RAM),
if powered up with TP19 (Switch Matrix Row 1) is connected to TP20 (Switch Matrix Column 0).
Note these two test points are located by MPU connector CN9.
This was allows the user to clear a flakey 5101 CMOS RAM chips and/or failing batteries (which power
the 5101 RAM when the game is off, so it doesn't forget audit and settings information).
This is handy because bad data in the 5101 RAM can cause strange game behavior,
and on earlier games could simply crash the MPU board or even make it fail to boot.
Next was MPU board 1B1110/1. Used on Space Shuttle and Earth Wind Fire,
it has the same ROM space as 1B1110/0. But this new MPU board introduced Switch Matrix Row 7.
On the earlier MPU 1B1110 and 1B1110/0, the switch matrix connector CN9 pin 9
did not go anywhere. On the newer MPU 1B1110/1, switch matrix CN9 pin 9 is connected to IC26 pin 7.
This, and the previously unused Switch Matrix Row 6, are used to support the 1B1149 "Flipper Programming Board".
To be honest, this is the only reason for switch matrix row 7. No (as in none!) Gen1 games
use switch matrix row6 or row7! So really the difference between 1B1110/0 and 1B1110/1 is not important.
But hey if for some reason you want switch matrix row7, the 1B1110/0 could be modified by adding a
jumper from IC26 pin 7 to CN9 pin 9.
Finally, the 1B1110/1a was the last update to this board, which is just a modified
MPU 1B1110/1 design to allow a second 2716 EPROM.
This board was used only for Locomotion, their last 1st generation game.
It's feature allows a 2716 EPROM at IC3 (instead of 2708.) This was needed for Locomation, as they
needed more programming space. To support a 2716 EPROM at IC3,
they cut the trace at IC11 pin 6 (which formally connected to IC39 pin 12), and connected it
with a jumper wire to Jumper J2's pin 1. Also IC39 pin 12 was connected with
a jumper wire to IC12 pin 18 (CPU address line 14). This placed
the upper half of the IC3 2K 2716 EPROM above the data from the EPROM IC5 in the
address space. Without these modifications, the upper half of ROM3 (a 2716 EPROM) is not addressable.
Note that the 1B1110/0 and 1B1110/1 are the most useful and versatile of the four Gen1 MPU board revisions,
since they have the RAM reset feature (and can support Switch Matrix Row 7, though frankly, that is
really not important, since no games use switch matrix row7!) These two boards would work for
any Gen1 game except for Locomotion. If needed for a Locomotion, either 1B1110/0 or 1B1110/1
can be modified into a 1B1110/1a.
Converting Gen1 CPU board to all 2716 EPROMs.
This solution uses a "double up" ROM technique to get
the 2708 ROM files on the computer into 2716 EPROM format. Since 2716 EPROMs only
require +5 volts to work on the CPU board, -5 and +12 volts is no longer needed on the CPU board.
Note this makes it a lot easier to bench test an MPU board too, as you now only need +5 volts for power.
To do the 2716 conversion, you'll first need to get your ROM files in order,
using a DOS command (at the "C:>" DOS prompt)
on the original 2708 images, converting them to 2716 sized files:
After all five files are in 2716 format and burned into five 2716 EPROMs,
they can be installed directly into the CPU board. BUT the -5 and +12 volts coming into
the board has to be disconnected. If the CPU board is powered up with -5 and +12 volts going
to the new 2716 EPROMs, these voltages will ruin the 2716s. So the CPU board has to have
a slight modification so that the -5 volts and +12 volts (which is only used to power
2708 EPROMs) is disconnected. To do this the CPU board's power at connector CN7 is modified
right on the CPU board:
NOTE: You do *not* need to change the ROM jumpers from "stock" for your particular game set up.
For example, if you're running Locomotion (which uses three 2708 EPROMs and two 2716 EPROMs
in stock format, and will now be all 2716's), do not need to change the ROM jumper settings from stock.
BUT if you want your Gen1 CPU board to be the most versatile, change the CPU board jumpers to
Location style. This will allow you to use any game with all 2716 EPROMs with no jumper changes.
A modified Gen1 CPU board to use all 2716 EPROMs (no 2708).
Locomotion Gen1 CPU Board Jumpers.
Converting One 2708 socket to 2716.
Using a 24 pin socket modified to use a 2716 EPROM in place of a 2708 (top).
Using a 24 pin socket modified to use a 2716 EPROM in place of a 2708 (bottom).
* In addition, if you prefer to use a 2732 (instead of a 2716), this can be done easily too.
Do the above modification, but on the 2732 pin 21, connect that to ground (instead of +5 volts).
Note you'll need to "quad up" the ROM files to use a 2732 EPROM (as described above
where we "doubled up" the 2708 ROM file into 2716 ROM file format.)
Some Gen1 games (and perhaps Gen2) use under playfields relays.
Below is a picture of a gen1 Shooting the Rapids. It has two
under playfield relays - the flipper relay (engages when a game
is started), and a relay for the drop target reset coils. Since
on Shooting the Rapids the drop target bank is long, it required
two coils. So Zaccaria decided to use a relay to reset the drop
target bank. A driver transistor on the driver board triggers
the relay, and the relay fires the two drop target coils (to
reset the drop target bank.)
Shooting the Rapids under the playfield. On the left, in a red
arrow, is the playfield coil fuse. On the right are two relays.
One for the flippers, and the other for the drop target reset bank.
The switch matrix is handled by the CPU board. It uses eight row and eight columns.
Problems with the switch matrix are very common in Zaccaria games (both gen1 and gen2.)
This is probably due to someone working on a game, and shorting coil voltage to
a switch lug.
The big problem with the Zac switch matrix is the Advance Test (and Return Test) buttons
are part of the switch matrix (row0/col0 and row0/col1.) This is a major design no-no
in the pinball world. Because if the switch matrix does take a dump, there's no way to
put the game into diagnostic tests! Most pinball game makers, for this reason, do not have
the test function as part of the switch matrix. Unfortuantely, Zaccaria didn't do that,
and if you have a switch matrix issue, there's just no way to get the game into diagnostics.
Hence having a switch matrix problem is very fustrating. Luckily fixing
the switch matrix *usually* isn't too big of a deal.
Though all games don't use all switches, there is a possibilty of 64 switches through
the use of 8 rows and 8 columns. This is pretty standard pinball stuff as far as that goes.
Notice the numbering of the rows and columns starts with "0" (opposed to "1"), which
means the guy designing the system was a true computer geek. Note that Gen1 games
do not use Row6 or Row7 on any game (row7 isn't even listed on the gen1 schematic
until Space Shuttle.)
Here's the CPU board connectors that attach to the playfield and cabinet switches.
Note on the gen2 CPU board connector CN10 is for the cabinet switches, and connector CN11 is
for the playfield switches. On gen1 CPU boards, CN9 is for the cabinet switches and CN8 is for
the playfield switches.
The column/row layout is done above for a reason. The cabinet switches (test, start, coin, etc)
are all in row0 and row1. Hence gen2 Connector CN10 is wired as it is (it's the cabinet switch matrix
connector.) Where gen2 CN11, the playfield switch connector, does not have any Row0 reference (because
all Row0 switches are cabinet switches.) The row0 and row1 layout is consistent amoung all
Zaccaria games (within Gen1 and Gen2, which have some slight variations):
Switch Matrix Charts.
Gen2 switch matrix charts
On Gen2 games most switch matrix row problems are a blown CA3081 chip at ic38 (and/or the BC548 transistor at TR3).
On Gen1 games most switch matrix row problems are a blown CA3081 chip at ic40 and/or ic41.
On Gen2 games, the switch matrix especially goes south on the games with stacked flipper EOS switches
like Farfalla, Magic Castle, Devil Riders. This happens
because there's coil power (39V) and lane change (switch matrix) on the EOS switch stack.
Then a CA3081 chip dies when somebody tries to
adjust the EOS switch with the power on, shorting coil voltage to the switch matrix
lane change switch..
The failure point is usually the CA3081 transistor array
chips at IC38 on the CPU board for the rows. But it doesn't end there. The
problem can back up to the 4028 chip behind it at IC41, It can even go one step
further back to the 4042 chip at IC33 (this especially likes to happen if
someone shorts 160 volt score display voltage to the switch matrix, which
can happen!) Note the transistor TR3 (BC548) is responsible for row0,
and it can fail too, causing some weird behavior. Replace only with a BC548,
do not use a 2n3904.
As for the switch columns, less problems generally happen here. But on Gen2 games the 40097 (4503) chip
at IC25 can be a problem. On Gen1 games the switch columns use 40097 chips at ic10 and/or ic25.
But in my experience, the row path is generally the one
with more issues.
Zaccaria Gen1 switch matrix schematic for the rows and columns.
Zaccaria Gen2 switch matrix schematic for the rows and columns.
After the above paths are checked, everything backs up via the DB0-DB7 lines to the
2650 processor at pins 33-26 (respectively.) Note the RAM chips (6514 and 2114) at
IC4 and IC5 also share the DB0-DB7 lines. But if the game is running and in attract
mode, chances are pretty good the RAM chips are fine.
Oscilloscope Pictures of the Switch Matrix.
Let's start with the switch matrix columns, as that path to the 2650a processor
is much shorter. The columns is the switch matrix "power" (drive), so it's
not as easy to see things on the scope because of this. Frankly you're looking
at the pull-up resistors r54-r61 when putting the scope on the switch column
connector (or the right side of chip ic25). On the left side of ic25 you're
looking at the data buss, which probably isn't that helpful either. But we'll
start here with some oscope pictures, to get you warmed up.
Switch matrix column, back one level, to IC25 pin 2 (column0). Note
that the other switch columns at IC25 pins 2,4,6,10,14,12 and IC24 pin 14,12.
It should look like this:
Switch matrix column, back one more level, to IC25 pin 3 (the left side of ic25).
It should look the same as IC25 pins 5,7,9,13,11 and IC24 pins 13,11.
What you're looking at here is the data buss DB0-DB7, which is shared with
the ROMs and RAMs. This then feeds back to the 2650 processor. This is probably not that
helpful, but here it is:
There's also a REDC signal at IC25 pin 15 and IC24 pin 15. This is the processor
reading the switch matrix. It should look like this:
Switch matrix row1 at connector Cn11 pin2 and IC38 pin 1, with game in attract mode.
This is the same picture you should get at Cn11 pins 2-9 and Cn10 pin 6 (make sure you check
Cn10 pin 6, as it's a descrete transistor and not part of IC38. Also this is the same picture
you should see at IC38 pins 1,2,14,4,12,7,9.
Here's going back one more step in the Switch matrix row1 to the input of IC38 pin 16
(the left side of ic38).
Also IC38 pins 3,13,6,11,8,10 should look the same. Note this is the chip that
fails most often in the switch matrix.
Back one more step, switch matrix row1 at IC41 pin 14. Also IC41 pins 3,2,15,1,6,7,4 should
also look the same:
Back one more step, Switch matrix row at IC41 pin 10 (A0). Note this should look
the same at IC41 pins 13,12 (A1,A2). Also same signal at IC33 pin 2,10,11.
Back one more step, switch matrix row IC33 pin 4 (DB0). The signal at IC33 pins 7,13,14 (DB1,DB2,DB3)
should look the same. Note is the same (time) sample rate as above.
Again switch matrix row IC33 pin 4 (DB0) and IC33 pins 7,13,14 (DB1,DB2,DB3).
Note this a slower (time) sample rate to really show the wave form better.
If you want to back up to the 2650a processor IC9 pin 33 (DB0). All the data lines
(ic9 pin 33-26) should look about the same. Here's that picture:
There are also a WRTC instruction as the 2650a writes data to IC33.
This is IC33 pin 6. Notice the scope time is turned way down to show this:
And also at IC33 pin 1 there the RFSH signal. If that doesn't get strobed,
then the reset watchdog circuit reboots the CPU board:
Switch Matrix Charts.
Gen2
Others
The gen1 and gen2 driver boards are different. Technically the
ribbon cable interface makes them "conpatible", but in reality
they are no where near compatible. Here's some differences:
Gen1 Driver Board Connectors.
On Space Shuttle, the schematics say the sound board uses a 8085 processor.
This is WRONG. It actually uses an 8035 processor (which is complete different
and not compatible with an 8085).
The flippers used on Zaccaria games are unique. But the good news is,
largely Gottlieb and Bally parts can be substituted in many cases.
We'll talk about that in this part of this document.
Like most other manufacturers from the 1970s and 1980s, Zaccaria used high voltage gas discharge score display tubes.
There are three variations in the actual display boards:
Soccer Kings, Pinball Champ style 8 digit display using 2-digit display glasses. Very problematic.
Farfalla, Devil Rider, Time Machine style 7 digit display glass. In the picture below one of the
display glass legs broke the solder joint to the control board, causing digit segment to not light.
Magic Castle and later 8 digit display glass.
Electronically, all three display boards are similar. The 7-digit board is a variation from
the earlier 8-digit board, with a few unneeded components deleted.
The 8-digit and 2-digit display glasses have been out of production for many years and
are essentially unobtainable. Worse, the 2-digit display glasses are reported to have
a high failure rate due to their age and original manufacture quality.
The good news, if there is any on games using 8 digit scoring, is both varieties
(4x2-digit and 8 digit) are interchangeable. Well except that the mount bracket
is different between the two...
The 7-digit display glasses (Farfalla, Devil Rider, Time Machine) are standard
7-digit numeric displays, as used on Williams games like Jungle Lord. That's good
news as you can still buy these display tubes.
The good news is there are LED low voltage (5v) score displays now available
for all variants of Zaccaria gen2 games.
Common Gen2 Display Failure point (pre-Magic Castle) 4042 chip.
If you have at least one working display, compare IC2 on both boards with a DMM
set to diode setting (displays removed from game.) Any difference found, replace the chip.
Or just replace and socket the chip, as the 4042 is not expensive.
Note the single glass 8-digit displays (Magic Castle and later) do not use a 4042 chip.
Display Jumpers.
Score display board jumpers that signify which score will be displayed this that display glass.
This 7-digit Farfalla display is set for Player4.
Display Segment Failures.
Using an NTE/ECG287 in place of the BF422 on score display panels requires rough engineering.
You can use the NTE/ECG replacement, but you will have to cross two
legs to make it work. Install the NTE/ECG287 so that C goes to R5/R10, E goes to R16, and B goes to the
drive chip (HEF4511BP or FSS8301.)
Display Digit Failures.
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